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A new exhibition puts the spotlight on the contribution of black designers in British fashion. “A lot of what black creatives do is informed by some of those darker and negative experiences. It’s our secret weapon,” said Jason Jules, who curated The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion, alongside Harris Elliott and Andrew Ibi. The exhibition at Somerset House looks at fashion, music, photography and art from the 1970s to present day, using four distinct themes: home, tailoring, performance and nightlife. It doesn’t shy away from the vivid experiences of racism and discrimination, and highlights how political yet liberating clothes can be for black communities. The exhibition features commissions from a new generation of black designers, including Bianca Saunders, Saul Nash and Nicholas Daley, as well as up-and-coming artists such as London-based couturier Ninivah Khomo and patternmaker Monisola Omotoso. There’s also the presence of design legends – such as Ozwald Boateng, Bruce Oldfield – who designed a red silk crepe dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales – and Joe Casely-Hayford, a designer and tailor who started showing collections in the 1980s and died in 2019. “Joe was the starting point for this entire exhibition,” Jules said. “He is the most missing part of the narrative [of mainstream fashion]. Individually we’ve all worked with Joe. On one level he seemed like he was just constantly in fashion, very aspirational, elegant, a sophisticated and distant person. But beyond the surface, he was actually very social, non-judgemental, playful, fun – the whole lot. “And in a sense, we wanted to communicate the dichotomy between how we see people and ourselves. “For me, he was the best designer this country ever had, because when you put him back in his rightful place, he transforms the entire British and global landscape of how we understand fashion.” Ibi agreed: “To be able to sustain that level of tenacity for such a long period of time, when you are consistently overlooked, is just amazing. And not enough people know who he is, especially young black people. “This is why it’s never been just about fashion, because in the background, whether you were studying or trying to get to the club, taxis wouldn’t even stop for you. It didn’t matter if you were creative or not.” The curators hope that the immersive exhibition, which “references our lives, time, progress, and development”, Ibi said, will highlight that black people have always been in fashion. Elliott – who set up The Black Orientated Legacy Development Agency (BOLD) with Ibi and Jules – said: “Style was always inherently in our genes. We couldn’t leave our homes dressed in a certain way. You had to always look impeccable to get anywhere in life, when melanin is your best friend.” The Morgan Stanley Exhibition – The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion exhibition opens on September 21, 2023 and will run until January 7, 2024 at Somerset House.

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Katie Taylor fights do not end the way her last one did – they just do not. Her first 22 as a professional might have differed in content, but they had a common conclusion: the visual of the Irish icon’s hand raised above her head. Sometimes, there was an extra coat of sweat clinging to her face. Sometimes, there were title belts draped over her still-burning shoulders. But the hand raised high? That was the constant. So, perhaps Chantelle Cameron didn’t get the memo. Perhaps she did but just didn’t care. Either way, the Englishwoman strolled into Dublin’s 3Arena in May and spoilt Taylor’s homecoming. For 10 rounds, the undisputed super-lightweight champion put her hands to work relentlessly, to ensure that one of them would be raised above her head on this night. For 22 fights, that was a moment reserved for Taylor. Not this time. But Taylor, in the months since the first defeat of her professional career – her first loss since Olympic disappointment at Rio 2016 – displayed a relationship with failure that is healthier than it has any right to be. “Failure causes you to analyse things a bit more. I think that’s where all the growth happens,” the 37-year-old told reporters ahead of her rematch with Cameron, which will play out on Saturday night and in the same building as their first clash. “Unfortunately, it has to be that way. You are forced to look at every single detail. In that aspect, it’s always a good thing. I definitely feel like I’m a better boxer now. “The last fight doesn’t consume me. I don’t think a loss is that big of a deal. Even after the Rio Olympics loss... you’re so heartbroken, you’re disappointed, but you focus on the next one. I don't wallow in self-pity too much. The next day [after the fight with Cameron], I was surrounded by family; I would’ve done the same thing if I’d been celebrating a win. I went back to training that week – I was preparing for the rematch that week!” As she did in May, Taylor will have the chance to erase the 0 in Cameron’s pro record on Saturday. As she did in May, Taylor will have the chance to take away the 32-year-old’s undisputed super-lightweight titles and add them to the undisputed lightweight gold that Taylor already possesses. The opponent, venue, and the reward on offer are the same. For Taylor, the result must not be. As such, the preparation has not been, either. “Mentally and physically, I feel a lot better going into this one, and that’s obviously a big deal. I think everyone can see that I wasn’t at my best in the last fight, but all credit to Chantelle; she did her job. You can’t afford to have flat nights at this level, I take responsibility for that.” Taylor, who has given more to women’s boxing and the sport overall than could ever be measured, was less giving when asked about what led to her “flat” performance in May. “I don’t think I should really expand on it,” she said. The pioneer lost by split decision that night, though some felt that the result was more clear cut than that. Did Taylor know, when the final bell sounded, that her unbeaten run was over? Could she tell before that, even? “I think during the fight I was focusing on trying to win the rounds, focusing on adapting,” she reflected. “I’m not the best at scoring a fight when I’m actually fighting. But I think the right winner won – speaking to my coach and family the next day, I know the right winner won.” Yet there was no hesitation about the prospect of a rematch. “No other fight would have made sense to me,” Taylor said. “It would have been a killer for me if I didn’t get this chance to fight her again. I do love the rematches; I always seem to come back as the better fighter the second time around.” Taylor will need to do just that on Saturday. She plays down the idea that there is more “pressure” this time, yet simultaneously acknowledges that the stakes are greater than ever before. It feels an illogical equation, but to Taylor, the maths add up. “Every fight there’s pressure, but it’s probably the most important fight of my career. I think it certainly would be one of the best wins of my career – one of the greatest nights of my career. This one’s definitely a must-win fight for me. “A lot of people, I think, are doubting me as well, so I love coming into those fights. I’m very, very grateful that I have this opportunity – not everybody gets a second chance, but I have one to make things right. And I’m very grateful to have a chance to box in front of everyone in Dublin again. “I knew it was gonna be a very loud arena that night, I knew it was gonna be a huge event, but it certainly was emotional when I walked out that night,” Taylor recalled, reflecting on one of the most special atmospheres at a boxing event in recent memory. “You can never really prepare for that.” The Irish people did not abandon Taylor in defeat. If anything, they are behind her more than ever, and that will be audible on Saturday. “I think the whole country realises this is a huge fight for me, and if it was loud last time, I can’t imagine how loud it’ll be this time. I think the Irish people have always been that way for me, even after defeats in my amateur career; I've always felt the love and support of the Irish people.” It is a mutual love that has inspired a unique legacy, yet Taylor rarely allows herself to think about the nights that crafted that legacy. “I always tend to focus on what’s next,” she said. “Who cares what happened in the past? I don’t think too much about [legacy], [but] I’m very grateful to have had an influence on the next generation and my nation as well; that’s very special to me obviously, that’s what it’s all about. There’s no point going through your career without having had any sort of influence on other people.” Just as she hesitates to look back, however, Taylor refuses to look too far ahead, even amid speculation that she could retire on Saturday – regardless of the result. “I’m not thinking that this is gonna be my last fight, or of any outcome other than a win,” she insisted. “I feel very fresh, so I know I have plenty more fights left in me, but I’ll obviously retire when I feel it’s the right time. I guess you guys can make your opinion as well, when you see me [this weekend], but I have no intentions of hanging up the gloves right now. Obviously I can’t do this forever, but retirement never came into my mind after the last fight, and I don’t think it’s ever good for a fighter to think of retirement going into any fight. Hopefully [my] legacy can continue, I just want to keep building.” Taylor’s legacy already stands above the vast majority of fighters to have laced up a pair of gloves, but if she wants to keep building, the next block will be attainable on Saturday. The only problem? It is in Cameron’s hands. Read More Who is fighting on the Katie Taylor vs Chantelle Cameron undercard this weekend? What time does Katie Taylor vs Chantelle Cameron start this weekend? How to watch Katie Taylor vs Chantelle Cameron online and on TV this weekend Why Katie Taylor’s rematch with Chantelle Cameron has all the makings of a classic Taylor questions whether women’s boxing is capable of switch to three-minute rounds Katie Taylor ‘aware of what is at stake’ in Chantelle Cameron rematch

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Oleksandr Usyk is set to defend his heavyweight titles against Daniel Dubois in Poland in August, the champion’s promoter has said. Talks between Usyk and WBC champion Tyson Fury collapsed in March, opening the door for the Ukrainian’s mandatory challenger, Dubois. Dubois, 25, is now expected to fight Usyk, 36, in Wroclaw on 12 August, according to Alex Krassyuk. “We won the bid,” Usyk’s promoter wrote on Twitter on Thursday. “Looking to stage the fight in Wroclaw, Poland on August 12th.” Unbeaten Usyk last competed in August, retaining the unified belts with a second straight decision win over Anthony Joshua, the man he dethroned in 2021. Meanwhile, Briton Dubois last fought in December, battling past an injury to stop Kevin Lerena. Dubois has suffered one defeat as a professional, against Joe Joyce in 2020. Read More Deontay Wilder claims Oleksandr Usyk is ‘a lot afraid’ of heavyweight clash Tyson Fury in talks with unbeaten heavyweight Demsey McKean over fight in Australia The Independent’s pound-for-pound boxing rankings