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Nicolas Hamilton: ‘Lewis has never put a penny into my racing... it’s not easy being related to him’
“I was 16 in my wheelchair and went to a check-in desk at an airport to go and watch Lewis at an F1 race.” Nicolas Hamilton – half-brother to seven-time Formula 1 world champion Lewis – takes a deep breath as he reflects on the turning point in his life. After a childhood impacted by the debilitating movement condition cerebral palsy, the moment he stood up and never sat back down. “This lady did not ask me any questions,” he recalls. “She just asked my Mum whether I needed assistance or help. I had all the hormones of a teenager wanting to be a man. I was growing a beard. I wanted to talk to girls and go to the pub. “But I’d become lazy and I was in a wheelchair because it was easier for me. It was hard work to walk around. Able-bodied people weren’t looking at me in the way I wanted to be perceived. That was when I got out of my wheelchair. And I haven’t been back in for 15 years.” We speak on world cerebral palsy day. Twenty-four hours earlier, the 31-year-old had given a motivational speech at Microsoft; a full circle moment, amid a year of heightened success. In April, Lewis was watching on incognito as Nicolas – shortened to Nic – recorded a best-ever finish of sixth in a British Touring Car Championship (BTCC) race at Donnington Park. His debut in 2015, using a fully adapted car with customised pedal positions and a hand-clutch, made him the first disabled athlete to compete in a series widely regarded as the pinnacle of British motorsport. Yet contrary to what many did and continue to believe, family support did not equate to financial support. “Lewis has never put a penny into my motorsport,” Nic tells The Independent. Three times, in fact. “There’s people who still don’t believe me when I say that, but that is literally the situation. “I’ve had a lot of online trolling and bullying where everyone says I’m only in BTCC because of Lewis. A lot of the criticism is unjust – I don’t deserve it. But to finally shut the critics up on April 23rd was the best thing I could ever wish for. It was a load of relief and a lot of weight off my shoulders. “When you’re slogging at it for so long, you feel like it’s not going to come. Every time you do something negative, you feel like you’re proving people right. So it was a telling day.” But what emerges throughout a 40-minute conversation is not so much a chip on the shoulder, so much as an intransient determination to shape his own way to success. Just months after that points-finish, Hamilton decided to leave his outfit, Team HARD, after the summer break. He insists he “wasn’t being valued to the level I’d have liked” but no matter. No hard feelings. Onto the next challenge. Such a mindset has been the cornerstone of Hamilton’s life since that day at the airport in 2008. Previous to that – and prior to his brother becoming a household name – it was a life full of difficulty. Years in school were spent isolated, the odd one out. Ever since I’ve started racing, it’s been hard because people compare me to Lewis and say I’m only there because he’s a multi-millionaire “I didn’t have a voice or a purpose in school,” he says. “A disabled boy and only person of colour in my year… kids did not want to be my friend. I was getting pulled back in my wheelchair and wasn’t able to fend for myself. “I would just internalise everything. Now, I’ve overcome my condition. Coming to terms with my relationship with my disability, now as a 31-year-old, is something I’m very proud of.” Once the obvious issue of depleted leg strength – “they were like mush” – and the pain of walking to the toilet slowly departed, racing became a deep-rooted desire. Alongside his first “proper job” working on the development team of a simulation racing game called Project Cars, he found potential in the cockpit in the real-world. After driving a BMW M3 for the first time, he entered his first race – the Clio Cup – at 19. But, he insists, it was not because he was Lewis Hamilton’s brother. “Ever since I’ve started racing, it’s been hard because people compare me to Lewis and say I’m only there because he’s a multi-millionaire. “He’s still a massive reason why I’m as strong as I am and why I’m out of my wheelchair. I’m still his No 1 fan. Lewis and my dad [Anthony], he has been the anchor for the whole family. “But it’s been really hard being related to Lewis and trying to carve my own career in motorsport.” Hamilton insists he has forged his own road. Like all racers at national level, without sponsorship and backing there is no racing. Sure, the surname helps. But he was eager to add as many strings to his bow as possible and in 2013, he did an interview on stage. Impressed by what he saw as a spectator, a CEO of a speakers bureau got in touch to sign him up to their talent roster. Now, he works for nine different UK speaker agencies. “I’ve always had to find something that makes me different, my USP,” he tells. “Every day I learn something new about my condition and then I talk to people – I’ve always been very open on mental health. “Now I stand in front of thousands to tell them my story and to inspire all sorts of people – disabled, people of colour, parents of disabled children. It’s snowballed since 2020. Regardless of whether I’m a Hamilton or not, I’ve ended up creating a story and a brand which is very strong for people worldwide to relate to.” The world doesn’t stop and nor do the opportunities. Earlier this year, he appeared in a photoshoot for Vogue and next month will represent MGM as an ambassador at the Las Vegas Grand Prix. He is desperate to find another opening to be on the BTCC grid in 2024. And in April, he releases a book: Now I Have Your Attention. The wheelchair has not left the cupboard since his teenage years but the basis of everything remains his disability – and a way of living only disabled people themselves can twist. “I want to continue spreading my voice – not around being Lewis Hamilton’s brother but around creating a legacy to help disabled people and people in a dark place,” he says. “I’ve been in dark places and I want to showcase that that is absolutely OK. Society will accept you if you accept yourself. “But I do get nervous because I always feel nothing is ever enough. I have this driven personality. You can never get the perfect lap, for example.” A line to finish that feels all too familiar. Read More What Lewis Hamilton’s clash with George Russell tells us about state of play at Mercedes Mercedes chief details ‘very ambitious targets’ for 2024 car Adrian Newey reveals ‘emotional’ Ferrari and Lewis Hamilton regret The highs and lows of Bernie Ecclestone ‘More teams, less races’: FIA boss outlines aspirations for future of F1 F1 reveal unique Las Vegas GP schedule and ‘opening ceremony’ plans
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Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan on 20 years of L’Enclume: ‘It all started with a radish’
In Cartmel, a picture-postcard Cumbrian village on the cusp of the Lake District, chefs in their whites are scurrying across the cobbled streets like an army of well-dressed worker ants. Some are heaving wheelbarrows stacked with mounds of freshly picked vegetables, still earthy from the farm; others are dashing from one building to another, precariously balancing enormous stacks of clean pans. They all have one thing in common: they work for Simon Rogan. If they’re the workers, he’s the queen. This well-rehearsed choreography is a typical sight every morning in Cartmel, where the Michelin-starred chef – one of only eight to own a three-starred restaurant in the UK – set up shop 20 years ago. After a decade of working at various levels in restaurants around the country (including a placement under Marco Pierre White and two years at the three-star Lucas Carton in Paris), Rogan was keen to open his own restaurant. Priced out of Hampshire and Sussex, he looked further afield and found a rundown 800-year-old former smithy in Cartmel available to rent. “I didn’t come here for anything as glamorous as the area or the scenery or the people,” he tells me, having just taken me on a tour of said area to meet said people. “It was just for this building. I was desperate for my own restaurant. I felt like I had never really achieved the things that I’d wanted to working for other people. I wanted to make my own mistakes and be in control of our own destiny. I know it sounds cheesy, but it’s true.” He made an offer on his way back from his first visit to the area, and L’Enclume was born. “Once you realise where you are, you think: s***, this is beautiful,” he adds, laughing. Over the next two decades, the ambitious chef transformed the Cumbrian village into a culinary destination unlike anywhere else in the UK. It’s now home to not only L’Enclume – awarded the environmental green star in 2021 and the coveted third star in last year’s Michelin Guide – but also the one-starred neighbourhood eatery Rogan & Co, and Aulis, L’Enclume’s six-seater chef’s table behind the main restaurant. He also put his name to Henrock, a more informal and relaxed offering just a half hour’s drive away at Linthwaite House, overlooking Lake Windermere. The engine behind this mini empire, and the reason I’m here, is Our Farm, a 12-acre plot in Cartmel that supplies the majority of the restaurants’ ingredients. A sustainable, closed-loop growing operation had always been “at the back of his mind”, Rogan says. He was inspired by his father, a fruit and vegetable salesman who would bring home a box of the day’s best produce, teaching him the importance of using every part of the ingredient. When they arrived in Cartmel to get started, though, “the standard of produce”, Rogan says “was absolutely rubbish. The reason we got into farming was my frustration at the ability to buy a perfect radish, which is the easiest thing in the world to grow.” They rented a small plot close to the restaurant, and filled in the gaps with local suppliers. But, back in 2002, it was too expensive to buy organic. “Things were triple the price they are now,” Rogan tells me, taking a sip of his beetroot juice at the Aulis counter. “So we bought little bits and pieces here and there alongside the normal suppliers. Then we had the opportunity to take over the farm. That’s when we thought: ‘Right, let’s start growing radishes.’” What started as a little garden has become something bigger than he could ever have anticipated. A restaurant growing its own produce is not a groundbreaking concept, but a kitchen garden this is not. You won’t find pristine beds and trimmed rose bushes and arty ornaments. But you will find a patchwork of muddy fields growing hardy vegetables, the topsoil painstakingly “fluffed” by hand; a regiment of polytunnels housing the more finicky plants, delicate micro herbs and other culinary experiments (I try something that tastes like pickled onion Monster Munch); and enormous hand-rotated compost bins that process all the food waste from the restaurants into mulch for the farm. All this is surrounded by hedgerows that have been carefully curated to attract birds and other wildlife to act as natural pesticides. None of this would be possible without head farmer John Rowland. Regenerative agriculture might be his trade, but birds are his true passion. During a tour of the farm, he lists off the species he’s seen circling overhead, drawn by the blackthorn, hawthorn, rowan and birch trees he’s been planting on the borders. “We cater for the birds more than the people,” he tells me, in a Welsh accent so bucolic I wonder whether he’s been shipped in specifically for the tour. “Everything on the farm has a use, and not only in a culinary way. The seeds and the berries attract the birds onto the farm. The birds are my pest control, so the more I can attract to the farm, the more pest control I have, and that is fantastic for birdlife. In Britain, we’ve lost 84 per cent of our bird species, but this area is really rich because of these techniques.” While he might prefer looking upwards, it’s what’s beneath our feet that Rowland is really focused on. “The life is in the soil,” he says, grabbing a great fistful of the stuff. “You have hundreds of types of fungus right here. We don’t want to disturb that biome in the ground so rather than rotavating the soil [breaking up the earth with a machine ready for planting] and destroying the millions of organisms that live in it, we build a six-inch layer of compost on top and aerate it with a fork. Once you’ve done that, each year you just top it off with an inch, and that’s regenerative farming,” he says matter-of-factly, clapping the dirt from his hands. Well, that’s the gist anyway, and while it’s perhaps a little more complicated than that, Rowland struggles to understand why more people aren’t farming in this way. “We’re the most nature-depleted country in the world. We’ve lost our wildflower meadows, we’ve lost our insect population, we’ve lost our wild songbird population. They’ve taken the hedgerows away to make the fields bigger. All the natural food in our countryside is being lost to intensive farming.” Regenerative techniques like those Rowland is putting into practice on Our Farm would go some way to reclaiming it, he says, but “it’s a shame that they don’t realise that”. He pauses for a moment, then corrects himself: “Well, it’s not that they don’t realise it. They know. It’s just that they want intensive farming because it makes them money and it’s wrong because we are killing everything.” How this translates to the table at L’Enclume is manifold. Every dish on the menu begins life on the farm, where Rowland will flag what’s in season and at its best, or suggest something new he’s been experimenting with. Or it might start as an ingredient foraged from the countryside or sourced from a local supplier. The idea is then tweaked in the development kitchen at Aulis, before it finally makes its way to the pass at L’Enclume. This results in a transient snapshot of Cumbrian cuisine that changes every time you dine, and a menu quite unlike anything else I’ve come across. When I visit in February, Boltardy beetroot – a variety chosen for its resistance to erratic weather – shines in a bitesize tart with smoked pike-perch fished locally, and perilla, a Southeast Asian herb cultivated on the farm that adds notes of mint and licorice. Elsewhere, there’s lovage and rose hip and lemon thyme, all foraged; there’s Cornish cod and Mylor prawns and potted shrimp and Maldon oysters; sweetcorn and champagne rhubarb from the farm that were fermented after they were harvested last summer so they could be used year-round; and an enormous selection of British cheeses, including Tunworth, which is frozen and crumbled in a palate-perplexing, salty-sweet dessert. It happens to be my favourite dish. Managing a farm-to-fork operation this complex, not to mention the empire, is no mean feat. “I could pretty confidently be a tax exile given how little I am in the UK at the moment,” he jokes. When we chatted in February, the team was preparing to revive their pre-Covid plan for a five-week residency in Sydney, which concluded this month. The punchline, of course, is the delay meant Aussies were given a taste of not a two-star L’Enclume, but all four stars. Given Australia is yet to receive a Michelin Guide and is not particularly well known for its agricultural sustainability, it was an interesting move, but one there is clearly appetite for. Despite the $420-a-head price tag, it was sold out, serving more than 4,000 diners. While the food at L’Enclume, at home and abroad, is clearly special, it’s the people that set it apart from other restaurants in this league. Their hospitality, affability and, perhaps most noticeably, northern accents, are not typically what you find at this price bracket (£250 a head for the tasting menu, plus £100-£290 for a pairing). Stuffiness is neither present nor tolerated. Many of the staff have been with Rogan since the beginning, switched between the restaurants, or left for pastures new only to return. “We get a lot of people coming back – only the ones we want, anyway,” he says slyly. There’s certainly been a few famous quarrels. The “Rogan alumni” is a term thrown around a lot during my visit, and includes Mark Birchall, who was executive chef at L’Enclume during its two-star era before setting up a curiously similar “restaurant with rooms”, Moor Hall, in Lancashire, which also boasts two stars and a further green. Then there’s Dan Cox, who cut his teeth at Rogan’s now-closed Fera in Claridges as well as L’Enclume, and helped him set up Our Farm in the early days. He’s now down in Cornwall, running the farm-to-table Crocadon. But, generally, people are drawn back to L’Enclume for the variety it has to offer. “Look around the country,” says Rogan, “and [other restaurants] haven’t got any staff because they can’t offer as many career progression opportunities for people. I suppose that makes them lucky. “It’s about not spreading yourself too thin. We’re only able to do these things because these guys are really, really hungry.” Acknowledging that hunger, he established the Simon Rogan Academy in 2021 to “nurture aspiring chefs”. It includes paid work across the Cartmel restaurants, and culminates in a week-long placement at his restaurant Roganic in Hong Kong. In the beginning, “we thought that maybe if we had just a third of them left at the end of the quarter, it’d be brilliant,” Rogan tells me. “But almost all of them stayed on! And now they all want jobs” – he comically rolls his eyes – “but really it’s great.” As I drift between the farm and the Cartmel restaurants, everyone hard at work but always smiling, it strikes me that L’Enclume isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a story. And its influence is immense. “Sustainability”, “farm-to-table” and “regenerative agriculture” were mere whisperings 20 years ago. Now they’re affixed to almost every new menu, and you could say they were born here. The people I’ve met could well be the next batch of Rogan alumni, attracting Michelin’s attention with their own restaurants in years to come. If it takes 20 years to craft a legacy like this, then I’ll make sure I come back in 2043. For more information about L’Enclume, visit www.lenclume.co.uk and for more information about Simon Rogan and his other restaurants visit www.simonrogan.co.uk Read More Why I won’t be doing Veganuary this year – or ever again Marina O’Loughlin is wrong – there’s joy in solo dining Michel Roux Jr announces closure of renowned restaurant Le Gavroche to have ‘better work/life balance’ The true story – and murky history – of Portuguese piri piri oil 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers
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