Judge throws out all charges against ex-police officer Mark Dial who fatally shot Eddie Irizarry during a traffic stop
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Who was Deputy John Durm? Son shares his last text to dad who was strangled by an inmate during escape attempt
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Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, V&A Museum review: Retrospective doesn’t shy away from designer’s Nazi ties
In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself
2023-09-13 07:00
When Does Apex Legends Season 18 End?
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Noah Carter scores 18, Sean East 17 and Missouri defeats Loyola of Maryland 78-70
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2023-11-26 03:43
NY Jets CB Sauce Gardner talks Aaron Rodgers handshake, toughest matchups, and more
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PulteGroup beats profit estimates on strong demand for pricier homes
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2023-10-24 19:36
Marcus Tavernier’s brace sinks Sheffield United as Bournemouth continue winning run
Marcus Tavernier fired a double as Bournemouth dismantled Sheffield United to win 3-1 at Bramall Lane and maintain their resurgence under Andoni Iraola. Tavernier struck early in both halves, his brace sandwiching Justin Kluivert’s first Premier League goal, while the impressive Cherries could have won by a bigger margin. Substitute Oli McBurnie headed a stoppage-time consolation for the Blades, who remain in the relegation zone. Bournemouth cruised to their first league win on the road this season and made it three victories in four top-flight matches to climb seven points clear of the bottom three. The Blades had followed up their recent first Premier League win of the season against Wolves with a 1-1 draw at Brighton before the international break but were a distant second best. Bournemouth bounced back from a 6-1 thrashing at Manchester City by beating Newcastle 2-0 at home in their previous match and their confidence was soon apparent as they were rewarded with a 12th-minute lead. Antoine Semenyo cut in from the right and his ball into the box found Tavernier, who evaded his marker with a neat first touch before burying a shot under Wes Foderingham. Tavernier went close to adding his second goal of the season moments later when he was foiled by Jack Robinson’s last-ditch tackle. Bournemouth continued to dominate and Kluivert, son of former Netherlands striker Patrick, was a fraction away when he fired into the side-netting following Tavernier’s clever step-over. The visitors threatened again as in-form striker Dominic Solanke flashed a near-post volley wide. The Blades became increasingly ragged and Tavernier, who could have had a first-half hat-trick, fired over after more good work from Semenyo. Paul Heckingbottom’s side regained a semblance of composure as half-time approached but that was undone in first-half stoppage time by Foderingham’s costly error. The Blades goalkeeper dallied as he collected a long punt forward outside his area and was dispossessed by Kluivert, who then stroked the ball into an empty net. The Blades were booed off at the interval and the home fans vented their frustration again six minutes after the restart when Bournemouth added their third goal to put the game to bed. Adam Smith clipped in an excellent cross from the right when left unopposed and Tavernier ghosted in at the far post to side-foot home. James McAtee fired wide for the Blades following a goalmouth scramble but Bournemouth threatened to add to their tally. Foderingham kept out further efforts from Semenyo, Kluivert, Ryan Christie and substitute Luis Sinisterra while tempers flared in the 69th minute, with George Baldock, Robinson and Bournemouth substitute Philip Billing all booked after a melee. McBurnie’s late header was scant consolation for the Blades, who slipped to their 10th league defeat of the season.
2023-11-26 01:39
Piedmont Lithium Partners With Vinland Lithium to Advance the Killick Lithium Project in Newfoundland
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