“The more ramen I eat, the more I’m drawn to miso ramen,” says chef Tim Anderson. “Thanks to its complex tare and the many textures found in its stir-fried veg topping, it’s just so damn interesting. Cooking and plating are a little different for this one, so make sure you read the method below.” Miso ramen Ingredients: For the broth (makes around 2.4L)): 2 tbsp vegetable oil or animal fat 50g fresh ginger root, thinly sliced 1 onion, quartered 1 garlic bulb, halved 250g chicken skin 250g chicken feet 800g chicken wings 1.5kg chicken frames, roughly chopped ≈3.5L water 4 bay leaves (optional) ½ tsp white pepper For the miso tar (makes 400g): 150g red miso 100g white miso 50g brown rice miso 2 tbsp vegetable oil or animal fat 1 onion, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 20g fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped 6 tbsp sake 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp sesame seeds, crushed 4 tbsp single cream 4 tbsp Ovaltine or malt powder 30g parmesan or mature cheddar, finely grated 1 tbsp shoyu For the garlic sesame oil (makes 80ml): 45ml vegetable oil or lard 60ml sesame oil 30g garlic (about 8 cloves), very thinly sliced For the toppings (makes enough for 4 bowls): 1 tbsp lard or vegetable oil ½ an onion, thinly sliced 100g minced meat (pork is typical but chicken, turkey or vegan mince work, too) ¼ of an hispi or flat cabbage, cored and coarsely chopped ½ a small carrot, cut into planks about 3mm thick A big handful of bean sprouts A few mangetout ¼ of a red pepper, thinly sliced A small pinch of salt and/or MSG (optional) 1 tsp sesame oil, or aroma oil of your choice Menma (tinned bamboo shoots) Shredded spring onions (scallions) or leeks Shop-bought noodles Optional toppings: Corn Butter Chilli oil Spinach or wakame Parmesan Beni shōga (red pickled ginger, sharp, sweet and artificially coloured. Good with tonkotsu) Sesame seeds Ajitama (ramen egg) Method: 1. Make the broth: Heat the oil or fat in a roasting tray in a fan oven set to 200C (425F), then add all of the vegetables and chicken parts and roast for 40 minutes, turning everything once halfway through cooking. Remove the vegetables with tongs and set aside. Tip the chicken parts and any drippings from the tray into a stock pot and add the water (enough to cover) and bay leaves, and set over a high heat. Boil hard for four hours, topping up the water as needed to maintain the water level. After four hours, add the veg and the white pepper, and continue to boil for another two hours. In the final hour, stop topping up the water and allow it to reduce slightly. Remove from the heat, then bring back to a high simmer if using immediately. Remember to re-emulsify the broth with an immersion blender before serving. 2. Make the miso tare: Stir together the three types of miso until well mixed. Heat the oil or fat in a small saucepan over a medium-high heat, then add the onion, garlic and ginger. Sauté for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until everything softens and begins to colour, then add roughly half of the miso mixture and continue to cook for another seven to eight minutes, until the miso darkens as well. Whisk in the sake and boil for three to four minutes to cook off the alcohol, then add the sesame oil, sesame seeds and the cream. Bring to the boil and cook for another three to four minutes, stirring often. Remove from the heat, leave to cool for a few minutes, then whisk in the Ovaltine, cheese, shōyu and remaining miso mixture. Transfer everything to a blender or food processor and process until smooth. 3. Make the garlic sesame oil: Pour the vegetable oil and one tablespoon of the sesame oil into a small saucepan and stir in the garlic, ensuring that none of the slices are stuck to each other. Set over a low heat and cook gently for about 15 minutes, stirring often, until the garlic is evenly golden brown (the reason for keeping the heat low is to cook off all of the garlic’s moisture before it begins to colour). Once the garlic is lightly browned (we’re looking for gold, not bronze), remove it with a slotted spoon, fork or similar, drain on paper towels and leave to cool. Leave the oil to cool for about 10 minutes, then tip into a jar and add the remaining sesame oil. Once the garlic chips have cooled, crush them into small pieces and keep in an airtight container lined with paper towels. 4. Make the toppings: Have all of your veg prepped and ready to go, because the cooking here should be very quick. In a wok or frying pan, heat the lard or oil over a high heat and add the onion and mince and stir-fry for a couple minutes, then add the cabbage and carrot and continue to stir-fry for two to three minutes until everything is wilted but still crunchy. Add the bean sprouts and mangetout and continue to stir-fry for another two to three minutes, then add the pepper and salt and/or MSG (use this sparingly, or not at all, if you’re going to boil the mixture in seasoned soup). Stir-fry for a further two minutes or so, then remove from the heat and stir in the sesame or aroma oil. 5. Build the ramen: You can build this bowl as you would any other ramen, but I think it’s tastier the way many shops in Sapporo do it, which is to combine everything in a wok and then transfer it to the bowl. Start with the stir-fry and when it’s done, stir in the tare, then the broth. Whisk to combine and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, cook the noodles in a separate pot of boiling water, and when they’re done, drain well and tip them into bowls. Pour the broth from the wok over the noodles along with the stir-fried and boiled veg, keeping the veg on top of the noodles as you portion them out. The fat can either be added to the bowl or to the wok; if you add it to the wok it will become emulsified with the broth upon boiling, but it will taste the same. If topping with butter and corn, add cold butter at the last minute, just before serving. ‘Nothing special’ ramen “Sometimes the ramen craving strikes and there’s no ramen to be found – what do you do? Instant ramen does the job, of course, and some of it is excellent, especially if you’re able to add good toppings,” says Anderson. “But even that is sometimes unavailable. This recipe is designed to tick the proper ramen box from common refrigerator and store cupboard ingredients – when you don’t have any good broth, nor tare, nor oils, nor nothing!” Serves: 1 Ingredients: 20g lard 80g minced pork 2 anchovies ½ an onion, thinly sliced A big handful of bean sprouts 2 garlic cloves, grated 1 tbsp sesame oil 2 tbsp red miso 1 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp white wine 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 tbsp shōyu 1 tbsp peanut butter or tahini A pinch each of white pepper and smoked paprika 500ml water 1 tbsp grated parmesan or cheddar 1 portion shop-bought noodles A big pinch of sesame seeds 1 spring onion, thinly sliced Chilli oil, to taste (optional) Salt, to taste Method: 1. In a wok or medium saucepan, melt the lard over a high heat and add the pork mince, anchovies and onion. Stir-fry for a few minutes, breaking up the anchovies as you go, until the pork is cooked through and the onion has begun to soften. Toss in the bean sprouts and garlic and stir-fry for another one to two minutes, then tip everything out into a bowl. 2. Add the sesame oil to the pan and set over a medium heat, then add the miso and sugar and fry it for a few minutes until the aroma becomes rich and caramel-like. Stir in the white wine, tomato purée, shōyu and peanut butter or tahini and cook for another few minutes, then add the pepper, paprika, water and cheese. 3. Bring to the boil, add the noodles and cook them to your liking. Once they’re done, taste the broth and add salt or more water as needed – different noodles will absorb different amounts of liquid, so you’ll have to adjust for this accordingly. 4. Transfer the broth and noodles to a bowl and top with the stir-fried mince and veg and garnish with the sesame seeds and spring onion. Add as much chilli oil as you like. Yu Xiang aubergine mixed noodles This recipe is inspired by aburasoba – a soupless ramen dish where the noodles are served in a bowl with tare (dipping sauce) and oil at the bottom and toppings on top, which is then mixed together at the table. “I’m tempted to call it an aburasoba… but it would not resemble any aburasoba I’ve seen in Japan,” says Anderson. “Aw heck, let’s just say it’s mixed noodles and call it a day!” Serves: 2 Ingredients: 1 large or 2 small dried shiitake mushrooms 150ml just-boiled water 1 large aubergine Oil, as needed for shallow-frying 1 tsp cornflour 2 tbsp shōyu 1 tbsp dark red miso (such as Hatchō miso) 1 tbsp oyster sauce 2 tbsp Chinkiang vinegar, Japanese black vinegar or similar, plus extra to taste 1 red pepper or a handful of small, sweet peppers, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 15g fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped 1-2 dried red chillies, or a few pinches of chilli flakes (to taste) 3 tbsp light brown sugar 1 tbsp sesame oil 2 portions noodles 2 spring onions, thinly sliced at an angle 2 egg yolks 50-60g Menma or tinned bamboo shoots Chilli oil, to taste Method: 1. Place the shiitake mushrooms in a small dish and cover them with the boiled water, then leave to rehydrate for about an hour. Meanwhile, cut the aubergine into batons or prisms about 2cm thick, and pour the oil into a large frying pan or wok to a depth of about 1cm. 2. Heat over a medium-high heat for a few minutes, then test the temperature by placing a piece of aubergine into the oil. If it sizzles vigorously immediately, the oil is ready. Add all of the aubergine to the oil and fry for about five to six minutes, turning often, until richly browned all over. Remove with a slotted spoon or spider and drain well on paper towels. Tip the oil out into a heatproof container, but leave about one tablespoon oil or so in the pan. 3. Once the mushrooms have rehydrated, remove their stems and cut them into thin slices. Stir the cornflour into the resulting mushroom dashi and stir together the shōyu, miso, oyster sauce and vinegar in a separate bowl until no lumps of miso remain. 4. Ensure you have all of your prep ready to go before cooking, because the pace needs to be fairly quick once you begin. Place the pan with the reserved one tablespoon oil back over a high heat. Once the oil is shimmering, add the peppers and stir-fry for two to three minutes until browned. 5. Add the garlic, ginger and chillies, and stir-fry for another one to two minutes, then add the sliced shiitake mushrooms and sugar and stir-fry briefly so the sugar melts and bubbles. 6. Add the liquid seasoning mixture and stir well, then add the cornflour and mushroom dashi mixture and bring to the boil so it thickens. Finally, tip in the fried aubergine and stir well to coat. Reduce the heat to low to keep warm while you cook the noodles. 7. Divide the sesame oil between the two bowls and add a few spoonfuls of the aubergine sauce to each one. 8. Boil the noodles until tender, then drain well and tip into the sauce. Stir the noodles through the sauce, then top with the aubergine and its sauce, and garnish with the spring onions, eggs and menma. Serve with chilli oil and extra vinegar – add as much as you like. ‘Ramen Forever: Recipes For Ramen Success’ by Tim Anderson (Hardie Grant, £26). Read More World Pasta Day: Nigella Lawson’s spaghetti with Marmite This speedy king prawn pasta has a supermarket secret weapon Midweek meals: Baked pasta Siciliana with meatballs How to make a classic lasagne Dear Pret, this is what a £7 sandwich should look like Jack Stein’s Cornish mussels with spinach and cider

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Ever find yourself awake, staring into space at four in the morning? Is it just a bad habit, or is there something more sinister going on? And why does it always seem to happen at 4am? “We start to experience less deep sleep after around four to five hours,” says Lisa Artis, deputy CEO of The Sleep Charity, who have partnered with Simba mattresses. And once we’re in that lighter sleep faze, we wake much more easily. If you generally fall asleep around 11pm – which is a very common bedtime, 4am wake-ups are more likely. And there are many factors leading to these inconvenient stirrings. Hormones “Sleep is guided by our internal clock or circadian rhythm. One of the most significant and well-known circadian rhythms is the sleep-wake cycle,” Artis continues. “Sleep is regulated by the levels of two hormones: melatonin and cortisol, which follow a regular 24-hour pattern. Melatonin assists you in dozing off, while cortisol helps get you up, and keeps you awake,” she explains. Keeping an eye on your hormones is important in preventing those late-night wake-ups. “Engage in calming activities before bedtime, such as reading, listening to soothing music, or practising relaxation techniques, like deep breathing or meditation,” says Dr Mariyam H. Malik, GP at Pall Mall Medical. Equally, pop your phone down for a bit. “Blue light from electronic devices can suppress melatonin production. Try to avoid screens for at least two hours before bedtime, or use blue light filters. It is best to charge them in a separate room overnight,” Malik adds. Diet Caffeine, heavy meals, alcohol, sugar, and a lack of magnesium or B vitamins could lead you to have a more disturbed night’s sleep, according to Malik. Sugar and carbohydrates may have a particular impact. “A diet high in sugar and refined carbohydrates can cause blood sugar fluctuations, leading to wakefulness during the night,” she says. “It’s unlikely you’ll feel hungry in the middle of the night if your blood sugar dips,” notes Artis, “but to reduce ungodly hour awakenings, trial alternatives for your last meal or snack of the evening. Instead of carb or sweet-based snacks, opt for protein-packed and magnesium-rich foods, like hard boiled eggs, cottage cheese, pumpkin seeds, spinach, dark chocolate, cashews, chicken thighs or turkey.” Protein can take the edge off your night-time hunger, she says, while magnesium is known to support sleep. Needing a wee Do you wake up needing to wee at the same time every night? “Try not to drink excessive amounts of fluids before bedtime,” advises Malik. “It’s important to stay hydrated, but try not to drink anything for around two hours before your usual bedtime. Go to the toilet before you go to bed to empty your bladder. ” Age and life stage “Sleep tends to become more disrupted as people get older,” Malik explains. “Sleep patterns change with age, and various factors can contribute to sleep disturbances in older adults. Some common reasons for sleep disruption in the elderly include changes in your circadian rhythm, decreased melatonin production, medical conditions or medications, and potential sleep disorders.” It can also affect women during the perimenopause. “The reproductive hormones – oestrogen and progesterone – are entwined with the sleep and relaxation hormones, melatonin and serotonin,” says Artis. “When oestrogen begins to fall before and during menopause, it can create a disturbance in the sleep-promoting hormone melatonin, meaning it can’t properly balance out cortisol. When this happens, the ability to fall and stay asleep is affected.” Recurring hot flushes, night sweats, dry skin, and low libido can signal waning oestrogen. Artis advises incorporating foods with high levels of phytoestrogens into your diet throughout the day to help with this. “Phytoestrogens imitate the natural estrogens found in your body. As a consequence, they can bind to your body’s oestrogen receptors and produce similar effects.” Try lentils, kidney beans, chickpeas, tofu, edamame, spinach, cauliflower and broccoli. Worrying Stress is not good for sleep. One study by Bupa even found that 32 million Brits wake up worrying about their health at precisely 4:05 am. The report, which surveyed 4,000 British adults, revealed that more than three-fifths of us wake up in the middle of the night. If you are finding yourself awake at all hours worrying, or waking up with stressful dreams, there are a few things that may help. “Keep a journal by your bedside and write down your worries before going to bed. This practice can help get your concerns out of your mind and onto paper, making it easier to let go of them temporarily,” says Malik. You may also want to “engage in mindfulness or meditation exercises before bedtime. Mindfulness can help you focus on the present moment, reducing anxiety about the past or the future.”

West Ham are unlikely to go back in for Manchester United captain Harry Maguire after seeing a £20million bid knocked back, the PA news agency understands. The Old Trafford giants made the England international the most expensive defender in history when bringing him in from Leicester for £80million in 2019. Maguire was swiftly handed the captain’s armband, but a lack of form and game time led Erik ten Hag to this month name Bruno Fernandes as United’s new skipper. Numerous clubs have been linked with a summer move for the out-of-favour defender and West Ham have seen a £20m bid for the 30-year-old rejected. PA understands the Europa Conference League winners are unlikely to make another move for him after seeing that bid rebuffed. Maguire has dropped down the pecking order at United under Ten Hag, yet sources indicate he is still seen as a valuable part of the squad and stressed they are not forcing him out. The defender has remained a key member of the England squad, despite enduring a poor 2022/23 campaign, but his place could come under threat if things do not improve before Euro 2024. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live

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It’s one of the biggest questions humans have asked themselves since the dawn of time, but we might be closer than ever to understanding how the universe developed the way it did and we all came to be here. Computer simulations are happening all the time in the modern world, but a new study is attempting to simulate the entire universe in an effort to understand conditions in the far reaches of the past. Full-hydro Large-scale structure simulations with All-sky Mapping for the Interpretation of Next Generation Observations (or FLAMINGO for short), are being run out of the UK. The simulations are taking place at the DiRAC facility and they’re being launched with the ultimate aim of tracking how everything evolved to the stage they’re at now within the universe. The sheer scale of it is almost impossible to grasp, but the biggest of the simulations features a staggering 300 billion particles and has the mass of a small galaxy. One of the most significant parts of the research comes in the third and final paper showcasing the research and focuses on a factor known as sigma 8 tension. This tension is based on calculations of the cosmic microwave background, which is the microwave radiation that came just after the Big Bang. Out of their research, the experts involved have learned that normal matter and neutrinos are both required when it comes to predicting things accurately through the simulations. "Although the dark matter dominates gravity, the contribution of ordinary matter can no longer be neglected, since that contribution could be similar to the deviations between the models and the observations,” research leader and astronomer Joop Schaye of Leiden University said. Simulations that include normal matter as well as dark matter are far more complex, given how complicated dark matter’s interactions with the universe are. Despite this, scientists have already begun to analyse the very formations of the universe across dark matter, normal matter and neutrinos. "The effect of galactic winds was calibrated using machine learning, by comparing the predictions of lots of different simulations of relatively small volumes with the observed masses of galaxies and the distribution of gas in clusters of galaxies," said astronomer Roi Kugel of Leiden University. The research for the three papers, published in the Monthly Notices of the Royal Astronomical Society, was undertaken partly thanks to a new code, as astronomer Matthieu Schaller of Leiden University explains. "To make this simulation possible, we developed a new code, SWIFT, which efficiently distributes the computational work over 30 thousand CPUs.” Sign up for our free Indy100 weekly newsletter How to join the indy100's free WhatsApp channel Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings

Defender Ryan Hollingshead and Golden Boot Award-winner Dénis Bouanga both scored goals in each half and Los Angeles FC began defense of its title with a 5-2 victory over the Vancouver Whitecaps in an MLS playoff opener