KAWASAKI, Japan--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Jun 14, 2023--

As well as introducing groundbreaking garments for women, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel embodied her brand in a way no other designer had done before, a new exhibition highlights. Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto – at London’s V&A Museum – traces the life and work of the famed French designer, who was born in the Loire Valley in 1883 and taught to sew by nuns in the orphanage to which she was sent aged 11, when her mother died. “Before her, designers weren’t really known,” says Oriole Cullen, curator of modern textiles and fashion and the V&A. “Their names were known, but they weren’t visible figures within society.” Starting out as a seamstress and cabaret singer, before establishing herself as milliner, Chanel later turned her focus to couture fashion and began designing casual clothing for women, inspired by the menswear of the era. “The Chanel brand as it stands [today] is really based on these ideas that she ushered in 100 years ago,” Cullen says, which is where the exhibition title comes from. “The meaning of that is really about a template that Gabrielle Chanel set out at the very beginning of her design career and came back to, reimagined and reinvented throughout her long career of sixty years.” Bringing together nearly 200 outfits, the show features items from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the showing of her final collection, two weeks after she died in 1971. Signature designs on display include little black dresses, tweed suits and quilted leather handbags – the most iconic of which is the 2.55 bag. “The 2.55 has never really gone out of fashion since she designed it in 1955,” Cullen says. “That is fascinating in terms of high fashion, that an object can stay the course for such a long time and still be relevant.” Part of the upper echelons of French society, Chanel initially relied on wealthy lovers, such as French ex-cavalry officer Etienne Balsan and English polo player Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel to fund her boutiques. Later becoming a celebrity in her own right, she amassed a personal fortune, thanks to the success of her fashion, accessories and cosmetics lines. “The perfume Chanel No5 was introduced in 1921, but then introducing make-up in 1924 and skincare in 1927, she was really ahead of her time,” Cullen says. “It’s something she was doing because she was designing for herself.” Chanel is credited with helping to liberate women from the constricting corsets and long skirts that were de rigeur at the turn of the century, and for popularising softer textiles, such as jersey. “She cuts her garments with high armholes, so you can lift your arms over your head,” Cullen continues. “She thinks about fabrics that are practical, and skirt lengths you can move in.” The exhibition – which was originally staged at Paris’s Palais Galliera in 2020 – highlights the brand’s UK and Ireland connections via British Chanel Limited. “This was an umbrella company set up in 1932 to work with an array of British textile manufacturers,” Cullen explains. “From lace in Nottingham, cotton velvets from Manchester, wools from Huddersfield, and also voiles and silks from Carlisle. “One of the other companies she worked with was the Old Bleach Linen Company, which is based in Randalstown in Northern Ireland.” Split into 10 sections, the exhibition concludes with a recreation of the mirrored staircase from Chanel’s Paris atelier. “Gabrielle Chanel used to sit at the top of the stairs when she was having presentations,” Cullen explains. “The models would descend and this faceted mirror would reflect back the audience’s faces to her, so she could read the mood in the room.” Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto opens at London’s V&A Museum on September 16. Tickets available at vam.ac.uk/chanel. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live 6 times Kate has worn London Fashion Week designers Pro-gamer Jukeyz ‘died for two minutes’ after cardiac arrest which left him ‘scared to sleep’ Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition

Rangers and PSV meet for a second year in succession with a place in the Champions League group stages on the line. The two-legged play-off encounter will determine which club is in the draw for the tournament proper on Thursday 31 August. It was the Scottish side that progressed from this stage in 2022 with a narrow away victory, but Michael Beale’s side have endured a mixed start to the new season. PSV, meanwhile, looked in good form in dispatching SK Sturm Graz by a 7-2 aggregate scoreline in the third qualifying round. Here’s everything you need to know. When is Rangers vs PSV? The first leg of the Champions League play-off between Rangers and PSV is due to kick off at 8pm BST on Tuesday 22 August at Ibrox in Glasgow. How can I watch it? Viewers in the United Kingdom can watch the match live on TNT Sports 1, with coverage on the channel from 7.30pm BST. Subscribers can stream the action via discovery+, the streaming home of the rebranded TNT Sports. Team news Ianis Hagi and Ridvan Yilmaz have been omitted from the Rangers squad, with the former potentially moving closer to an exit from the club. James Tavernier and Todd Cantwell were among those not involved in the cup win over Greenock Morton, but should return for the first leg. Phillipp Mwene and Patrick van Aanholt have remained in the Netherlands due to injuries, leaving Peter Bosz with a slight problem at left back. New signing Sergino Dest is available after his loan move from Barcelona went through on Monday, but this first leg may come too soon for a full debut. Predicted line-ups Rangers XI: Butland; Tavernier, Goldson, Souttar, Barisic; Cifuentes, Cantwell, Jack, l; Sima, Danilo, Dessers. PSV Eindhoven: Benitez; Teze, Ramalho, Boscagli, Sambo; Veerman, Sangare; Bakayoko, Til, Vertessen; De Jong. Odds Rangers win 2/1 Draw 13/5 PSV win 7/5 Prediction A score draw leaves things in the balance ahead of next week’s second leg. Rangers 2-2 PSV Read More England’s impact will last far longer than pain of World Cup final defeat Everton condemn ‘vile’ racist abuse aimed at midfielder Amadou Onana Mason Greenwood will not play for Manchester United again, club announce

A look at the day ahead in U.S. and global markets by Harry Robertson It's been a tough little patch

MotoGP apologised to Indian fans Friday for displaying a map of the country without Kashmir -- which is disputed with Pakistan -- on its live...

Savannah Guthrie of 'Today' reunites with old pal Mariska Hargitay at Taylor Swift's concert, sharing a joyful snapshot

Kai Cenat and Twitch streamer Jynxzi are in the spotlight as they join forces for an upcoming Fortnite showdown

If you’re filled with terror at the prospect of being without your phone, you’re not alone. A new poll has found that 42% of British adults identify with ‘nomophobia’ – the fear of being stuck without mobile phone connectivity. According to psychologist Dr Linda Papadopoulos, nomophobia is firstly about “dependency”, and secondly about “slight catastrophising”. She said: “The key to having a healthier relationship with your phone is implementing values, boundaries and being self-aware when it comes to how we use our phones.” Of the 2,000 people surveyed by Sky Mobile, 23% said they would rather hold a tarantula, 14% said they would prefer to go swimming with sharks, and 15% said sleeping in a haunted house would be better than being without 5G for an entire week. According to the research, on average British people use their phone for 14 hours per week. Here’s what you need to know about phone addiction – and how it might be impacting our wellbeing… How can we spot the signs of nomophobia or phone addiction? According to Papadopoulos, it’s quite simple. “If you’re engaging and constantly checking to see where your phone is or if you’ve missed a call, [and are] worried, anxious about the possibility of missing out” – whether this is a social event or something work-related – you could have nomophobia, Papadopoulos suggested. “We’re at our most peaceful when we feel like we have control over something.” She encourages you to think about the first thing you look for when you wake up or walk out the door – if it’s your phone, it could be a sign of nomophobia. “There’s also this thing where we think our phone is vibrating, and it’s not. That’s another sign too.” Has social media made it worse? It’s important to understand what our phones are to us. “They’re no longer just phones, right? They are these digital prostheses, which we use to do everything from learn to work to connect,” said Papadopoulos. “In the case of things like social media, we know that a big part of our desire to be on those apps is around that sense of not just belonging – which obviously they were originally intended for – but also that sense of missing out. “So I think anything that you do, which relates to who you are, your expectations around your work, your personal life, are all going to feed into this.” How might it be impacting our wellbeing? “It all depends on what we are doing with our phones. If I’m sitting down doom scrolling, of course it will affect how I’m feeling. That’s not great,” she suggested. “You want to own your technology instead of your technology owning you. Don’t catastrophise your mobile phones, because there are other things you can do to remain connected and it can lead to technology separation anxiety – the disproportionate sense of fear of being without your technology. “When you are talking about any sort of addiction, if it gets in the way of your day-to-day life, you start having disproportionate reactions, struggle to engage with people in real life, your sleeping pattern is non-existent or not eating your dinner, those are the sorts of things you should look out for when it comes to nomophobia. “For example, if a 12-year-old girl is posting a bunch of things on social media and sitting at her phone waiting for likes, that would be a sign of her phone affecting her mental health.” But there are also positives to mobile phones, Papadopoulos adds. “I live really far away from my family. Sometimes I even cook with my mum, even though she lives in Cyprus,” she said. How can we start to address it if we think we have a problem? “Do basic things like keeping your phone in the same place to avoid using brain power constantly looking for where it is,” Papadopoulos advised. “And don’t vilify or deify your mobile phone. It’s neither the best thing in your life or the worst. This will help you start to get a sense of control over those anxious thoughts.” If you’re concerned that your behaviour might be addictive, see your GP for help. For more information on how to switch to Sky Mobile visit https://www.sky.com/shop/mobile. Read More Nursery places and wraparound childcare plans announced Is scalp exfoliation the key to healthier hair? Why do some people love horror movies? TikTok influencers warn about ‘potent’ steroid cream risks among black women – dermatologist explains the risks House of the Year 2023 shortlist revealed by Royal Institute of British Architects Fatima Whitbread supporting new fostering campaign, as research finds ‘misconceptions put people off’

Jordan Love threw an interception to Steelers safety Damontae Kazee on the final play of regulation, but the Packers got the last word on a dirty hit.

Jake Paul has been criticized by fans on the Internet for his ‘go crazy’ comment

Janet Jackson inserted some youthful spirit into her normally mature concert during a Saturday night tour stop in Los Angeles

Max Verstappen on Thursday dismissed reports of a power struggle between Red Bull team boss Christian Horner and veteran special...