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Saltie Girl will make you happy as a clam – as long as you can afford it
Saltie Girl will make you happy as a clam – as long as you can afford it
I visited the original Saltie Girl in Boston last year, beckoned by the restaurant’s sexy red-head mascot (think pin-up Ariel) and the promise of quality seafood in the city. But all I remember is being sorely disappointed. The millennial pink walls were tired and in dire need of repainting; the prices were eye-watering and the expectation to tip generously hung over me and my emptying bank account like a dark cloud; and worst of all, the food was deeply mediocre. Never mind, though. I chalked it up to the misfortune of having been had by trendiness. Saltie Girl became but a distant memory – until earlier this year, when I discovered it had opened a branch in Mayfair. Experience meant I was immediately sceptical. The original restaurant had been so forgettable, why should this one be any different? In addition, it’s in Mayfair, where the only memorable thing about so many restaurants is the fact that they are seriously overpriced. I suppose if your clientele have enough money to throw around that they don’t really care about how anything tastes, it’s fair play. But it was certainly enough to make me question whether it would be worth going. At the same time, I was curious to see how the new place would compare. Perhaps Saltie Girl could redeem itself on British shores? Maybe I wouldn’t leave a sad salty seadog, but instead a happy clam? There was only one way to find out. On my way into Saltie Girl, I make a mental note about the Mayfair Chippy next door, which has a huge line out the door. If tinned fish and lobster rolls don’t fill me, this place will surely do the trick. It turns out I needn’t have worried, but I will most certainly be thinking of the Mayfair Chippy the next time I’m in town. Every surface in the shiny, new Saltie Girl is, well, shiny and new. It’s a far cry from the despondency of the Boston establishment, but I’m not letting myself get distracted by the newness of it all. Nevertheless, it was pretty and highly Instagrammable, and full. Cost of living woes do not exist in Mayfair, judging by this crowd: a gaggle of wealthy blonde women celebrating a birthday, a well-to-do couple on their anniversary dinner, a group of finance colleagues sinking cocktails and gossiping about their co-workers. One of the restaurant’s main attractions is its extensive list of tinned fish. These aren’t just any tinned fish (Forget John West; even Brindisa Ortiz, the staple of London’s tinned fish lovers, is too low down the ladder to be served here). These are £16 anchovies, £14 sardines, £16 trout, and £34 clams in sealed metal boxes that are pried open and served on a board with French bread and butter, three types of salt and pickled peppers. And they are utterly delicious. We had smoked anchovies in EVOO from Spain, which were salty, fatty and perfect. A New England lobster roll with house-made crisps are a must-have, and the price varies according to market rates. But don’t fret – you can guarantee that you’ll be paying a premium price. Just look at where you are. If you still require an indication, keep in mind that the lobster waffle is £32 and lobster frites are £65. Make of that what you will. At least there’s no going wrong with heavily buttered lobster in a bun, and the restaurant is fairly generous with the filling so you don’t feel like you’ve been shortchanged too much. We also share the dover sole meuniere, a classic dish of delicate, scrape-off-the-bones dover sole in a brown butter and caper sauce. Hispi cabbage and jersey royal potatoes make for some lovely sides, but then again, everything is better doused in butter. Overall, the meal was certainly better than the one I had in Boston (I’m talking about you, ultra-dry Saltie Girl Burger) and I enjoyed listening to salacious workplace gossip from the table next to us while savouring my half of the lobster roll. There were a couple of hiccups with service: waiters forgetting our drinks, our sides and to ask us for our dessert order. This soured the experience a little – at the price customers are expected to shell out for a tin of clams, you would’ve thought that staff training would be a priority. I left Saltie Girl feeling closer to happy clam than salty seadog – but unless I win the lottery or someone else is paying, I’ll probably stick to the Mayfair Chippy. Saltie Girl, 15 N Audley St, London, W1K 6WZ | saltiegirl.com | 020 3893 3000 Read More These recipes will keep you hydrated on hot days Three tomato salad recipes that aren’t boring Try one of these pasta recipes this British Tomato Fortnight Uncorked: How do I keep my wine cool at a picnic? How to make chocolate chip cookies on the BBQ How to master BBQ chicken wings
1970-01-01 08:00
Toyota debuts hydrogen-fueled Corolla race car as auto racing begins shift away from gas guzzlers
Toyota debuts hydrogen-fueled Corolla race car as auto racing begins shift away from gas guzzlers
A humble Corolla running on liquid hydrogen has made its racing debut, part of a move to bring the futuristic technology into the racing world and to demonstrate Toyota Motor Corp.’s resolve to develop hydrogen vehicles
1970-01-01 08:00
Chinese star banker Bao Fan detained by country's top anti-graft body, state media says
Chinese star banker Bao Fan detained by country's top anti-graft body, state media says
One of China's top tech bankers, who went missing in February, has been in the custody of the country's top anti-graft watchdog since his disappearance and has had his detention extended, according to a state media report.
1970-01-01 08:00
Ben Roberts-Smith: Australian soldier loses landmark defamation case
Ben Roberts-Smith: Australian soldier loses landmark defamation case
Ben Roberts-Smith loses his defamation case against newspapers which accused him of war crimes.
1970-01-01 08:00
Premier League Broadcaster beIN Goes Off Air on UAE’s Etisalat
Premier League Broadcaster beIN Goes Off Air on UAE’s Etisalat
Qatar’s beIN Media Group, which holds exclusive rights in parts of the Middle East to stream some of
1970-01-01 08:00
China Carriers Are Worst Airline Stocks as Reopening Bet Fades
China Carriers Are Worst Airline Stocks as Reopening Bet Fades
The boom-and-bust in Chinese airline stocks is another sign that investors are losing patience with the country’s slow
1970-01-01 08:00
Big Tobacco faces big EU counterfeit problem
Big Tobacco faces big EU counterfeit problem
By Richa Naidu, Emma Pinedo and Emilio Parodi MADRID Spanish police raided three clandestine tobacco factories early this
1970-01-01 08:00
Singapore Regulator Says AI is Focus of Marquee Fintech Festival
Singapore Regulator Says AI is Focus of Marquee Fintech Festival
Artificial intelligence will take center stage at Singapore’s annual fintech event in November, underscoring the growing significance of
1970-01-01 08:00
Canadian pension fund CDPQ puts brakes on China investment - FT
Canadian pension fund CDPQ puts brakes on China investment - FT
Canada's second-largest pension fund Caisse de dépôt et placement du Québec (CDPQ) has stopped making private deals in
1970-01-01 08:00
Ramaphosa Deploys Envoys to Explain South Africa’s Russia Stance
Ramaphosa Deploys Envoys to Explain South Africa’s Russia Stance
South Africa’s president will send four of his cabinet ministers to Group of Seven nations to explain the
1970-01-01 08:00
HSBC Explores Deals in Debt-Swap Market That Credit Suisse Built
HSBC Explores Deals in Debt-Swap Market That Credit Suisse Built
HSBC Holdings Plc has added its name to the list of banks looking to expand into a fast-growing
1970-01-01 08:00
Trump accuses DeSantis of faking his own name in wave of attacking social media posts
Trump accuses DeSantis of faking his own name in wave of attacking social media posts
Former president Donald Trump escalated his attacks on competitor Ron DeSantis as the Florida governor began his presidential campaign in Iowa following his glitch-laden Twitter announcement. The 45th president on Wednesday claimed that Mr DeSantis was looking to "change his name". "Have you heard that 'Rob' DeSanctimonious wants to change his name, again," Mr Trump wrote on his social media platform Truth Social. "He is demanding that people call him DeeeSantis, rather than DaSantis. Actually, I like “Da” better, a nicer flow, so I am happy he is changing it. "He gets very upset when people, including reporters, don’t pronounce it correctly. Therefore, he shouldn’t mind, DeSanctimonious?" The Florida governor pronounced his name both as “dee-santus and “duh-santus", but reportedly settled on the latter. Mr Trump in a subsequent post, wrote: "ELECTION INTERFERENCE!" The one-time president continued his diatribe against Mr DeSantis by reposting a statement from Republican representative Mike Keyy, accusing the governor of “ingratitude” after Trump endorsed him in 2018. "There was a time when Ron DeSantis begged for president Trump's support. Our president gave Mr DeSantis that put him in a position to win the Florida governor's race...," the statement read. Mr Trump persisted. He then shared a post with a link to an article that called Mr DeSantis a "Trump knockoff". That followed another post linked to an article calling Mr Trump’s support “unmovable". A third post with a link claimed "Trump showed that he can capably lead America and protect the unborn”. Mr DeSantis, meanwhile, blitzed through Iowa during his first full day of presidential campaigning, stepping up his verbal swipes at the former president. The governor accused MrTrump of abandoning “America First” principles on immigration, supporting coronavirus pandemic-related lockdowns and generally having “moved Left”. Mr DeSantis also laughed off frequent criticism from the former president over his leadership in Florida, particularly on the state’s response to Covid-19. “Hell, his whole family moved to Florida under my governorship,” Mr DeSantis said. “This is a different guy than 2015, 2016,” Mr DeSantis previously told The Daily Wire, a conservative news website. Read More Reports: Prosecutors have tape of Trump discussing holding onto classified doc after leaving office Trump news - live: Trump caught on tape revealing he kept classified papers after presidency, report says DeSantis news – live: Florida governor attacks ‘wokeness’ but avoids saying Trump’s name at Iowa rally Ivanka and Jared split over attending Trump 2024 launch – follow live Why was Donald Trump impeached twice during his first term? Four big lies Trump told during his 2024 presidential announcement
1970-01-01 08:00
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