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The National Portrait Gallery’s new restaurant is a fabulous upgrade
The National Portrait Gallery’s new restaurant is a fabulous upgrade
It’s possible that you’ve never paid much attention to London’s gallery and museum restaurants, but once you start looking for them, there are many. The British Museum’s Great Court Restaurant, under its iconic glass ceiling; Skye Gyngell’s temple to veg, Spring, at Somerset House; high-end tapas at José Pizarro at the Royal Academy of Arts. They’re not the edgiest joints in town, nor somewhere you’d drop in for an impromptu bite. Instead, what they’re great for is a gift – an art fix and a posh lunch or dinner as a day out. I have such a food-and-art pairing in mind when I take my dad to The Portrait, the new Richard Corrigan restaurant at the National Portrait Gallery. Tucked at the top of the Trafalgar Square building, in a former glass-edged event space where windows are filled with a pleasing cityscape of London rooftops, it opened on 5 July, the final touch to a major three-year renovation of the gallery that finished in June. It’s open for lunch Sunday to Tuesday, and both lunch and dinner Wednesday to Saturday. The Portrait also opened just days after the launch, to much fanfare, of Sir Paul McCartney’s NPG exhibition Eyes of the Storm. A behind-the-scenes look at The Beatles’ dizzying rise to fame in 1963 and ’64, followed by fine dining, sounds right up mine and my dad’s street – a classic central London day out. The NPG has certainly had a glow-up since I last visited. A polished new entrance hall and welcome desk, gliding escalators, vividly painted galleries and rehung portraits. After marvelling at McCartney’s handwritten lyrics to I Wanna Hold Your Hand, and the youthful ease and joy of an off-duty John Lennon frolicking in Miami, we drop in on the Tudors before heading up to The Portrait. It’s a rather corporate-feeling but convivial scene, with linen-trousered and pastel-shirted guests talking art over elegant plates of fish and meat, gleaming glassware and white napkins. What jazzes up the simple pine tables and steel-framed open kitchen is the view: a long, slim panorama featuring the National Gallery’s ornate dome, the London Eye, Nelson’s Column, the Houses of Parliament and the tower of St-Martin-in-the-Fields. Along one sloping wall is a butter-yellow mural of the gallery’s exterior, which marketing materials tell me are bespoke linen panels by wallpaper-maker-to-the-stars de Gournay – but otherwise the Brady Williams Studio has kept the design light and minimal, letting the view, and the food, do the talking. Here’s what it has to say: instantly intriguing things about artichoke with crab mayonnaise and kombu (kelp seaweed powder), “snails bolognaise” over conchigliette, a duck heart vol au vent, pig’s trotter with borlotti beans and something described only as “cauliflower, yeast, seeds”. (We skip that one.) Much of it is what you’d expect from Corrigan – earthy flavours from the UK and Ireland, plenty of fish and veg present, but with a few curiosities thrown in. We kick off with Carlingford oysters zinged up with ginger, lime and coriander – “This is no stuffy seafood restaurant”, they clearly declare. My dad is presented with his artichoke starter, a glorious fan of outer petals cupping a nicely roasted centre, topped with a crab-rich seafood sauce and umami-packed powder. Both are light, flavour-packed and made for a champagne toast. Next we dig into that escargots bolognese, and pork with barigoule of fennel and apricot mustard. The bolognese is rich and nicely seasoned with a pleasantly meaty texture, but the pasta shells fall slightly flat with a fairly bland, creamy sauce; I long for a more moreish dish where the pasta enhances rather than simply supports the bolognese. The Huntsham’s Farm pork wins more points with its melting richness, set off by the vinegary tang of the fennel and peppery-fruity sauce. Our friendly and approachable waiter talks through some wine-by-the-glass options for us, picking out a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc and a Chianti to suit our respective dishes. Service is quick and efficient, but with no trace of being rushed through and out – there’s plenty of time to linger and talk over the view. Which we do for well over an hour and a half, given we can hear each other clearly (always a bonus for a dad and daughter meet-up). Unusually for both of us, we indulge in a pudding: I can’t resist the English cherries with goat’s milk ice cream, a fabulous clash of jammy sweetness and savoury tartness. Dad goes for the rum baba, soaked in a generous boozy sauce with enough fresh pineapple to cut through the sweetness. Like our choices of sides – olive oil mash and broccolini with almonds – everything is instantly appealing while having some sort of flourish we may not have had before. When I thought of a gallery lunch, I pictured perfectly fine fish fillets and chicken cutlets, rather than my first snail pasta dish, my first goat’s milk ice cream and my first Asian-spiced oyster all in one sitting. With dainty-portioned mains at £22-£32, there are no bargain bites, but the style of food and the option of set menus (£28 for two courses, £35 for three) feels nicely suited to an exhibition ticket as a present or treat. You could easily jazz up that £28 prix fixe with a £15 glass of champagne or The Portrait’s strawberry and balsamic bellini. A meal here can be as good value and restrained or lavish and decadent as you make it – surely true of any day out in the capital. And with most of the National Portrait Gallery free to view (not to mention freshened up, with the visitor experience streamlined) it’s a fabulous upgrade for a low-key afternoon of art. The Portrait Restaurant, The National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London WC2H 0HE | 020 3872 7610 | theportraitrestaurant.com Read More The Union Rye, review: Finally, a decent restaurant in this charming East Sussex town Forest Side: Heavenly Cumbrian produce elevated to Michelin-starred proportions Papi: Pandemic troublemakers’ restaurant is a fun, flirty hit The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha 3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think
1970-01-01 08:00
Will Paddy Pimblett fight Logan Paul? UFC legend responds to WWE superstar's cage fight call out
Will Paddy Pimblett fight Logan Paul? UFC legend responds to WWE superstar's cage fight call out
Paddy Pimblett said, 'I haven’t fought in over 6-7 months, and people are still talking about me, I’m not even ranked'
1970-01-01 08:00
Lindsay Lohan’s mum Dina says she gave birth ‘two days earlier’ than her due date
Lindsay Lohan’s mum Dina says she gave birth ‘two days earlier’ than her due date
Dina Lohan has revealed that her daughter Lindsay Lohan welcomed her first child “two days earlier” than her due date. Lindsay and her husband Bader Shammas confirmed via a representative on Monday (17 July) that they are now the proud parents of a “beautiful, healthy son named Luai”. In a statement, the representative added: “The family is over the moon in love.” Dina, 60, told Us Weekly that she had plans to travel to Dubai, where Lindsay and Shammas live, to be with her daughter before the birth. However, her second grandchild “decided to come early to join us sooner”, she said, adding: “We are so blessed and overjoyed and filled with so much love.” Lindsay, 37, announced that she was expecting her first child in March, less than a year after marrying Shammas in June 2022. She recently shared an inside look at her son’s beach-themed nursery with her fans on Instagram. The Falling For Christmas star posted a photograph of herself cradling her bump in front of a wall with a beach mural and a nautical-themed crib. In April, Lindsay shared photos from her baby shower with family and friends and wrote in the caption: “Good times. So grateful for all the wonderful people in my life.” She opened up about impending motherhood in an interview with Allure last month and said she “can’t wait” for the next chapter of her life. “I can’t wait to see what the feeling is and what it’s like to just be a mom,” she said. “Happy tears. That’s just who I am. Though now, it’s probably baby emotion. It’s overwhelming in a good way.” Lindsay and Shammas tied the knot last year after announcing their engagement in November 2021. In an appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon, the Parent Trap star gushed about the Arabic financier and said he was her “person”. She described married life as “so special”, adding: “It’s great. I met my person, and you never know if you’re going to find that in life. “He’s an amazing man. I love him and we’re a great team.” Read More Sorry lads, we just can’t afford any more reckless, middle-aged adventurers Cruise line apologises after passengers witness dozens of pilot whales being slaughtered Woman’s response to Tinder match asking her to go on an ice cream date sparks debate Lindsay Lohan gives birth to her first child Support with mental health issues and finances should be linked – Martin Lewis Holiday childcare costs up with fewer places available, survey finds
1970-01-01 08:00
Will Lionel Messi play for MLS All-Stars in Arsenal friendly?
Will Lionel Messi play for MLS All-Stars in Arsenal friendly?
A look at whether Lionel Messi will be available to play for MLS All-Stars in their upcoming friendly against Premier League side Arsenal
1970-01-01 08:00
Roundup: Sofia Vergara, Joe Manganiello Divorcing; Shohei Ohtani Hits 35th Home Run; Ex-Northwestern Players to Sue
Roundup: Sofia Vergara, Joe Manganiello Divorcing; Shohei Ohtani Hits 35th Home Run; Ex-Northwestern Players to Sue
Sofia Vergara and Joe Manganiello are divorcing, Shohei Ohtani hit his 35th home run, Ex-Northwestern players preparing to sue and more in the Roundup.
1970-01-01 08:00
NFL Training Camp Bonus: Bet $11, Get $450 GUARANTEED From Bet365, DraftKings and FanDuel
NFL Training Camp Bonus: Bet $11, Get $450 GUARANTEED From Bet365, DraftKings and FanDuel
NFL Training Camp gets underway this week and Bet365, DraftKings and FanDuel all have incredible NFL promos available that'll net you a GUARANTEED $450 win just by betting $11 total!See below how to claim each offer exclusive to FanSided readers.Bet365 NFL Promo CodeIf you sign up for B...
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Will.i.am and Britney Spears confirm brand new song
Will.i.am and Britney Spears confirm brand new song
Britney Spears is reuniting with will.i.am on the track 'Mind Your Business'.
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Guadeloupe profile
Guadeloupe profile
Provides an overview of Guadeloupe, including key facts about this French Caribbean territory.
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Did Ariana Grande and Dalton Gomez split because she was famous? Singer's estranged husband is dating around, sources say
Did Ariana Grande and Dalton Gomez split because she was famous? Singer's estranged husband is dating around, sources say
Ariana Grande attended Wimbledon without her wedding ring, fueling further rumors that her marriage with Dalton Gomez was on rocky ground
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Guadeloupe media guide
Guadeloupe media guide
An overview of the media in Guadeloupe, including links to broadcasters and newspapers.
1970-01-01 08:00
Why is Sean Gunn protesting against Netflix amid SAG-AFTRA strike? Actor is not happy with residuals from 'Gilmore Girls'
Why is Sean Gunn protesting against Netflix amid SAG-AFTRA strike? Actor is not happy with residuals from 'Gilmore Girls'
Sean Gunn has lashed out against Netflix execs regarding the disparity in the distribution of residuals
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BNY Mellon beats second-quarter profit estimates on higher rates
BNY Mellon beats second-quarter profit estimates on higher rates
Bank of New York Mellon Corp beat Wall Street targets for second-quarter profit on Tuesday as the U.S.
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