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As well as introducing groundbreaking garments for women, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel embodied her brand in a way no other designer had done before, a new exhibition highlights. Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto – at London’s V&A Museum – traces the life and work of the famed French designer, who was born in the Loire Valley in 1883 and taught to sew by nuns in the orphanage to which she was sent aged 11, when her mother died. “Before her, designers weren’t really known,” says Oriole Cullen, curator of modern textiles and fashion and the V&A. “Their names were known, but they weren’t visible figures within society.” Starting out as a seamstress and cabaret singer, before establishing herself as milliner, Chanel later turned her focus to couture fashion and began designing casual clothing for women, inspired by the menswear of the era. “The Chanel brand as it stands [today] is really based on these ideas that she ushered in 100 years ago,” Cullen says, which is where the exhibition title comes from. “The meaning of that is really about a template that Gabrielle Chanel set out at the very beginning of her design career and came back to, reimagined and reinvented throughout her long career of sixty years.” Bringing together nearly 200 outfits, the show features items from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the showing of her final collection, two weeks after she died in 1971. Signature designs on display include little black dresses, tweed suits and quilted leather handbags – the most iconic of which is the 2.55 bag. “The 2.55 has never really gone out of fashion since she designed it in 1955,” Cullen says. “That is fascinating in terms of high fashion, that an object can stay the course for such a long time and still be relevant.” Part of the upper echelons of French society, Chanel initially relied on wealthy lovers, such as French ex-cavalry officer Etienne Balsan and English polo player Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel to fund her boutiques. Later becoming a celebrity in her own right, she amassed a personal fortune, thanks to the success of her fashion, accessories and cosmetics lines. “The perfume Chanel No5 was introduced in 1921, but then introducing make-up in 1924 and skincare in 1927, she was really ahead of her time,” Cullen says. “It’s something she was doing because she was designing for herself.” Chanel is credited with helping to liberate women from the constricting corsets and long skirts that were de rigeur at the turn of the century, and for popularising softer textiles, such as jersey. “She cuts her garments with high armholes, so you can lift your arms over your head,” Cullen continues. “She thinks about fabrics that are practical, and skirt lengths you can move in.” The exhibition – which was originally staged at Paris’s Palais Galliera in 2020 – highlights the brand’s UK and Ireland connections via British Chanel Limited. “This was an umbrella company set up in 1932 to work with an array of British textile manufacturers,” Cullen explains. “From lace in Nottingham, cotton velvets from Manchester, wools from Huddersfield, and also voiles and silks from Carlisle. “One of the other companies she worked with was the Old Bleach Linen Company, which is based in Randalstown in Northern Ireland.” Split into 10 sections, the exhibition concludes with a recreation of the mirrored staircase from Chanel’s Paris atelier. “Gabrielle Chanel used to sit at the top of the stairs when she was having presentations,” Cullen explains. “The models would descend and this faceted mirror would reflect back the audience’s faces to her, so she could read the mood in the room.” Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto opens at London’s V&A Museum on September 16. Tickets available at vam.ac.uk/chanel. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live 6 times Kate has worn London Fashion Week designers Pro-gamer Jukeyz ‘died for two minutes’ after cardiac arrest which left him ‘scared to sleep’ Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition

Apple Inc.’s new iPhone 15 Pro will go on sale in the UK for about £100 ($125) cheaper

A fire in a high-rise block kills at eight people and injures dozens in Vietnam's capital.

Many people were feared dead and several injured in a fire at a nine-story apartment block in Vietnam's capital of Hanoi, the official news agency said on Wednesday, while authorities have yet to confirm the number of deaths.

Thailand will waive visa requirements for travelers from China and Kazakhstan in the busy holiday season as the

China’s struggle with a weak yuan extends far beyond how it trades against the dollar. The People’s Bank

'Batgirl' directors Adil El Arbi and Bilall Fallah are still devastated the movie was scrapped before being shown in theatres, and they are particularly disappointed that nobody could see Michael Keaton reprising his Batman role in their version.

Martin Scorsese has revealed he rewrote the script for Killers of the Flower Moon and changed Leonardo DiCaprio's role because he was worried he was 'making a movie about all the white guys'

John Mayer has announced he will be playing a one-off show in Los Angeles next week to raise funds for a veterans charity

Adults who spend a large part of their day engaging in sedentary behaviors are more prone to dementia, a new study finds. The research, published on Monday in the journal JAMA, found that people aged 60 and older who spend over 10 hours a day engaging in behaviors like sitting while watching TV or driving could be at increased risk of developing dementia. Scientists, including those from the University of Southern California say, the findings are concerning since Americans on average are sedentary for about 9.5 hours each day. In the study, researchers assessed the data from about 50,000 adults over the age of 60 who had wrist-worn accelerometers to measure their movement for 24 hours per day for a week. The individuals did not have a diagnosis of dementia at the start of the study, scientists noted. They then used a machine-learning algorithm to analyse the dataset of accelerometer readings and classify behaviors based on different intensities of physical activity. Using the AI system, scientists could differentiate between different types of activity and sleeping – providing an objective measure of the time each person spent engaging in different types of sedentary behaviors. After an average of six years of follow-up, researchers used hospital records and death registry data to determine dementia diagnosis, and found 414 participants had the neurological condition. Scientists then adjusted for factors such as age, sex, education level, race/ethnicity, chronic conditions, genetics as well as lifestyle characteristics like physical activity, diet, smoking and alcohol use, self-reported mental health. They found that sedentary behavior was linked with increased risk of dementia among the participants. However, they found that certain amounts of sedentary behavior was not associated with dementia. “We were surprised to find that the risk of dementia begins to rapidly increase after 10 hours spent sedentary each day, regardless of how the sedentary time was accumulated,” study author Gene Alexander from the University of Arizona said. “This suggests that it is the total time spent sedentary that drove the relationship between sedentary behavior and dementia risk, but importantly lower levels of sedentary behavior, up to around 10 hours, were not associated with increased risk,” Dr Alexander added. Researchers call for more studies to establish causality and whether physical activity can mitigate the risk of developing dementia. The findings, according to scientists, “should provide some reassurance to those of us with office jobs that involve prolonged periods of sitting, as long as we limit our total daily time spent sedentary”. Read More What it’s like having Menopause Brain in a millennial office Josh Duhamel and wife Audra Mari announce they’re expecting first baby together Woman warns not to ignore symptoms after hot flushes lead to leukaemia diagnosis Poor metabolic health ‘linked with 12% higher risk of dementia later in life’ Sleeping pill could reduce levels of Alzheimer’s proteins Daily aspirin dose can help prevent diabetes in older people, scientists say

This is the fourth Nipah virus outbreak in Kerala state since 2018.

Aviva is selling its stake in Singapore Life Holdings as the insurer continues to trim its portfolio around