Victoria’s Secret returns to ‘sex sells’ ethos after ‘feminist’ rebrand fails to boost sales
Just weeks after pledging to deliver a new feminist approach to its brand, Victoria’s Secret appears to have reverted to its tried and tested “sex sells” strategy following a slump in sales. The US lingerie chain had attempted to rehabiliate public perception following criticism that it promoted typically thin, white models as the preferred beauty standard. Relaunching its once blockbuster fashion show in September, Victoria’s Secret replaced its “Angels” with the VS Collective – a group of diverse, successful women including Megan Rapinoe and Priyanka Chopra. But executives are now reportedly re-embracing “sex appeal” after the short-lived makeover failed to boost sales. During a presentation last week, a top executive said Victoria’s Secret would be the subject of an image overhaul, adding “sexiness can be inclusive”. “Sexiness can celebrate the diverse experiences of our customers and that’s what we’re focused on,” Greg Unis, brand president of the company’s youth-focused venture Victoria’s Secret & Pink, told investors on Thursday (13 October). The reboot is part of a larger strategy to revive its sales after a five-year marketing overhaul fell short of expectations. According to the Business of Fashion, Victoria’s Secret is projecting $6.2bn in earnings this fiscal year – a five per cent drop on sales in 2022, and well below the $7.4bn sales reported in 2018. Now, Victoria’s Secret has laid out a roadmap to bolstering its revenue, including cost-cutting, reviving its swimwear and activewear ranges, and further expanding its offerings to include products such as sweaters, slip dresses, and corsets. Giving its stores a more “welcoming” facelift is also part of the plan. Chief executive Martin Waters added that the retailer’s inclusivity initiatives and campaigns had “not been enough to carry the day”, referring to the company’s performance in recent years. Once the purveyors of Swarovski-studded undergarments and unrealistic body standards, Victoria’s Secret has, in recent years, embarked on a journey to shed its hyper-sexualised image and pay attention to changing social norms. Its initial attempt to adjust its image came hot on the heels of declining sales due to the emergence of inclusive and diversity-friendly brands such as Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty and Third Love, as well as several controversies including top management at L Brands – the former parent company of Victoria’s Secret. In 2018, L Brands’ then-marketing boss Ed Razek sparked a backlash when he declared that Victoria’s Secret would never cast transgender and plus-size models in its annual Fashion show because it’s a “fantasy”. Razek resigned the following year after he was accused of inappropriate behaviour with models – allegations he called “categorically untrue, misconstrued or taken out of context”. Around the same time, an investigation by The New York Times uncovered ties between L Brands’ former chief executive Lex Werne and convicted paedophile Jeffrey Epstein, which further sullied the reputation of Victoria’s Secret. In an effort to rehabilitate its image, the brand’s recent campaigns have featuring stars such as former US women’s football captain Megan Rapinoe, plus-size models Paloma Elsesser and Ali Tate-Cutler, and Brazillian transgender model Valentina Sampaio. Last month, Victoria’s Secret: The Tour ‘23 was released on Amazon Prime, with the company declaring the televised catwalk event was the “ultimate expression” of its commitment to a new Victoria’s Secret that’s more in step with the times. Despite its struggles, Victoria’s Secret still owns a lion’s share of the north American market today. “We’ve been insufficiently differentiated in this difficult market,” Waters said, during the meeting last Thursday. “[But] our ambition of being the world’s leading fashion retailer of intimates apparel is unchanged.” Read More Victoria’s Secret was never feminist – why are they bothering to try now? Victoria's Secret overhauls its racy fashion catwalk in its latest moves to be more inclusive From Naomi Campbell to Hailey Bieber: All the top models and celebs in Victoria Secret’s new Icons campaign
2023-10-19 20:49
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Black magic: Go back to black this season with the catwalk-inspired trend
Trends come and go, but if you had to bet all your chips on one colour never going out of fashion, you can bank on black. And as designers ditch colour in their collections and crave the fluid, liquid lines of fashion’s darkest and most addictive shade, you can embrace mood-boosting monochrome and jet black without any fear of making a fashion faux pas – or bad buy. From a showy shoulder at Balmain – who would have thought that a PVC maxi dress could look even more sultry? …To sexy, slinky sequins at Michael Kors; tailored, long black coats (LBC) at Max Mara, Dolce & Gabbana, Victoria Beckham and Prada, black is more than a shot in the dark this season – and the devil is in the detail. To get the catwalk look, here’s what’s hot on the high street and will make a great first impression… Black blazer Call it the power blazer, Le Smoking, or straightforward tailored trouser suit, this is your wardrobe staple to look sharp. “The trouser suit is an icon of sophistication and confidence,” says Zoe de Abreu, co-founder of Ro&Zo. “A black blazer matched with trousers will be the perfect companion for all occasions, as it transcends perfectly from day to night.” For a dare-to-bare aesthetic, go topless underneath – apart from a sexy black bralette – and accessorise with a cosmic choker or pukka set of pearls. Ro&Zo Black Belted Blazer, £129; Black Pleat Detail Trousers, £109. Reiss Alia Slim Fit Single Breasted Satin Suit Blazer, £268; Alia Flared Satin Waistband Suit Trousers, £178. Showy shoulder “The off-shoulder trend takes on a new dimension this autumn, adding a feminine touch to seasonal wardrobes,” opines de Abreu. She says this trend is elegant and feminine, and can be worn in a range of textures, such as jersey, velvet and Merino wool. Moreover, baring a shoulder is very flattering – the neckline lengthens the neck, frames the face – and is a great transitional, versatile piece with a good measure of va-va-voom. Ro&Zo Black Jersey One Shoulder Top, £49; Ombre Sequin Skirt, £129. Reiss Adele Velvet Off-The-Shoulder Jumpsuit, £178. Luxe lace Ladylike lace has been reimagined with trims adorning jersey and velvet – and it’s made a beeline for the little black dress. Whether a flattering midi dress is crafted from a luxuriously soft jersey that contours your curves, “A delicate lace-tiered hem adds a dramatic finishing touch,” says Karen Peacock, chief creative officer and co-founder, Albaray. Or embellished on the neckline and hemline of velvet, sheer lace channels some vintage charm with the X-factor. In fact, if you’re feeling thrifty, be inspired by ribbon and trim shops and think about sewing a lace trim on an existing black dress for an instant update. Albaray Jersey & Lace Mix Dress, £89. LK Bennett Anouk Black Velvet And Lace Dress, £429. Sparkle Whether you go full-out sequins or dazzle in rhinestones, a sexy shimmer is where it’s at. “For autumn, sequins really capture the essence of festivity, allure and drama,” notes de Abreu. “Sequins are all about adding a touch of glamour to your look, and letting your outfit take the centre stage.” Moreover, “A flattering silhouette is created with a sequin halter top and matching flared trousers,” says Peacock. “Wear together to make a statement, or dress down and style with jeans or a simple T-shirt,” she adds. Next Flutter Sleeve Tie Waist Mini Dress, £60. Albaray Sequin Top, £69; Sequin Trousers, £99 – available mid-October. Long black coat A long black coat may not set your pulse racing, but the LBC took to the runway in its droves, with designers making it a key piece in their collections. And let’s face it, nothing looks more elegant or grown-up than wrapping yourself in wool. Just make sure it’s calf-length or longer. As Peacock puts it: “A sharply tailored black coat is a true investment piece, which is both functional and stylish.” “With the ability to style casually or formally, it will be a go-to during the colder months for years to come.” Next Belted Long Coat, Black, £62. John Lewis Hand Finished Robe Belt Wool Blend Coat Black, £159; other items from a selection Read More How to prep your home for when the clocks go back Menopause campaigner Mariella Frostrup: ‘I look forward to a future where women gradually stop feeling so ashamed’ More girls miss school and college due to their periods than colds, survey finds More girls miss school and college due to their periods than colds, survey finds How to look after your immune system as the weather changes How to protect your plants as the first frosts arrive
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