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A melting pot of social image and designer conception: A look inside New York Fashion Week 2023
A melting pot of social image and designer conception: A look inside New York Fashion Week 2023
I can’t lie. I felt famous during New York Fashion Week. With my focus oscillating between Google Maps and the cobblestone streets of Tribeca, I had no time to stop and think about the scene I would be approaching. The thing with runway shows is they never start on time. Who shows up early these days anyway? For me, someone constantly late but willingly accepting every opportunity, NYFW’s schedule worked to my advantage. Still, inklings of doubt mixed with the rush of not knowing how late would be too late – leaving me with little room for mental preparation. In the case of the Brandon Maxwell show, I anticipated an intimate setting. I was told the guests were close friends, family, and a few high-profile fashion moguls who were asked to refrain from using recording devices during the presentation. It was a trusted circle of less than one hundred. I knew there’d be paparazzi outside impatiently awaiting the elite attendees. However, I didn’t foresee the vast amount of turned heads and focused cameras crowding the corner of Walker Street and Cortlandt Alley, all readily directed at me. Suddenly, I was someone to be noticed. Through the white flashes and crisp calls for attention, I approached the threshold of the Andrew Kreps Gallery. I presented myself to be checked off a list of people deemed special enough to see inside. Camera personnel and event staff had no clue who I was or why I was there – the irony. I wasn’t Julia Fox, Anna Wintour, or Blake Lively-level distinguished or expected. But I, Kaleigh Werner, was presumed worthy of being photographed and granted access based on proximity, invitation, and seating. It was thrilling. I felt as though I’d made it. In the literal form, yes, I’d arrived at my destination and found my chair. But metaphorically, I was on the cusp of something sensational that surpassed the rush of being realised through an entirely new lens. As a reporter, someone invited to review these presentations, it’s easier to block out the A-list noise. My attention remains locked on the intricacies of each collection, and figuring out how they mirror the thoughts of a designer. Whether sitting in the front or standing in the back, I’m concentrating on how a designer’s societal impression can be contextualised in fashion, while still adhering to the temperature regulations of the season. I’m in a gallery or a museum to perceive art, not at a red carpet event. I’m not being dressed by the brand. I’m not worried about how I look. The runway demands my attention. So, my gaze is directed there. This year I attended three shows: ADEAM, Atelier Ndigo, and of course, Brandon Maxwell. For ADEAM’s spring/summer 2024 show, hosted inside a warehouse on the west side of Manhattan, creative director and CEO Hanako Maeda effectively fused her longtime love for the ballet with her desire to “juxtapose the performance art as a sport”. “I think the collection combines the romanticism and couture-like craftsmanship that you see in ballet costumes with a more modern, sporty mood. I also added a touch of rock ‘n’ roll edge with the accessories,” Maeda told The Independent. Through tulle skirts, corsetry, ribbon, sheer Ponte, mixed media knits, and tailoring, Maeda - who designed the costumes for New York City Ballet’s Fall Fashion Gala in 2015 - reconfigured ballerinas to be models replicating a facile silhouette on the street. By using the specific material and intentional shape often associated with ballet, she harnessed the “athletic prowess” a performance artist displays and weaved it into everyday wear. Atelier Ndigo played with personal inspiration by utilising vibrant colours, textured fabrics, and structured pieces. From a bumpy white two-piece to balloon short sleeves, brand founder Waina Chancy once again proved to be an architect in dainty yet outspoken fashion. The white-washed walls of Spring Studios, complete with a backdrop of block brand lettering, only made every shade of red, purple, pink, and orange louder. Back at Andrew Kreps Gallery, Brandon Maxwell strayed from the eccentricity of his past spring collections to construct an ethereal response to the power of love. To him, that response is seen through sheer and natural beauty, along with coding that only added a breath of elegance. On the catwalk, gusts of chiffon, leather, knits, and denim blew past the few guests who sat in the studio. With flourescent lights and white ambiance, it felt as thought Maxwell had called upon angels to introduce a new wave of purity and innonence. Yet, the see-through materials mixed with belted pieces reminded us of the allure of form. The Brandon Maxwell spring/summer 2024 runway presentation wasn’t just the launch of a new line, but a visceral discussion on freedom and restraint - being simutaneously aware of both independence and determinism. From the distant eye, minimalism was triumphant. But upon closer look, the details were unveiled. Spliced sleeves turned biker-esque jackets and blazers into capes; sheer layers over and under long, fitted jackets transformed signature workwear into chic formalwear; and ripped, patchwork denim paired with slouched sweaters or unbuttoned button-ups brought an air of luxury to street style. As I exited down the steps to return to the reality of a typical work day, I stuck around to see who I could spot leaving the venue. NYFW has assumed a certain social stigma and media blitz. As much as it’s known for the inspired collections crafted by the minds of upcoming and distinguished talents, the seven-day affair has been hit with criticism, as more participants and curious observers are blinded by its social scene. After an animal rights advocate and PETA supporter stormed Coach’s spring/summer 2024 runway to protest the brand’s use of leather, discussion errupted around influencers increased presence at NYFW. Famed creators like Taylor Hawkins have been quick to point out how “dead” some events can get, due to the amount of brands that prioritise seating and dressing social media stars based on their online presence. Kelly Cutrone, best-selling author and CEO of People’s Revolution, echoed these sentiments in conversation with Dear Media during NYFW in February. “It’s just like, because you’re good at marketing yourself on the internet doesn’t make you a fashion expert,” she said about influencer being invited to shows. “Don’t pretend that just ‘cause you come here for a week that you’re in the fashion business.” For industry representatives - who are devoted to furthering the conversations that are evoked in fashion collections - their experiences are entirely separate from those who are invited to sit and make content about what they saw. These professionals are behind-the-scenes, speaking with the creative directors and producing copy to candidly honour their own work. “You know what I really don’t get, and what I don’t have much time for anymore. The fact that so much of the fashion content around the show that I see, especially on Instagram with these influencers, it’s really all about them,” fashion journalist Mosha Lundstrom Halbert said on her podcast, NEWSFASH. “It’s all about the fact that they got to go to fashion week - okay, cool. The fact that they’re being dressed by the designer - great, I’m happy for you,” she went on. “No editors get dressed by the designers, that’s really just influencers. And the fact that they’re going to show you where they sat and who they’re friends with...” But, there’s an advantage to having paparazzi feed off the unpredictable swarm of A-listers and influencers, and an obvious benefit to designers who decide to fill their front row with them. At ADEAM, Lana Condor, Elsa Husk, Poppy Delevigne, Harry Shum Jr, and Anna Cathcart were among the photographed VIPs. Meanwhile, Brandon Maxwell hosted Henrik Morten Lischk, Lisa Aiken, Eva Chen, Camila Alves McConaughey, Kat Collings, and Alex Badia. From a brand perspective, visibility is everything. In order for clothes to sell, the pieces need to be represented and observed by the right people – the “Emily Ratajkowskis” who generate buzz, or the social media influencers who inspire fads. It’s worth noting that, even though the production, styling, and individual garments speak volumes to the attractiveness of a collection, desire is often born from those who are adored and admired. Designers will develop their seasonal lines in tandem with a muse or inspired concept, like ADEAM’s spring/summer 2024 being motivated by the ballet or Brandon Maxwell’s being an answer to the impasse of freedom and restraint. Then there was Dolce and Gabbana’s famed spring/summer 2023 show curated by Kim Kardashian, after both Domenico and Stefano were galvanised by the reality star’s “it girl” essence. High fashion runway can be viewed as a melting pot of celebrity image and designer conception. While the relationship between famed figures and name brands is pertinent to Fashion Week criticisms, the focus shouldn’t be on celebrity sightings or social climbings. Although I observed a clear presence of exclusivity hovering over runway presentations and after-parties, I found the purpose is not to be seen but to step inside the minds of imaginative designers and celebrate the execution of their visions. Read More London Fashion Week 2023: All the highlights from day two British Vogue appoints Chioma Nnadi as Edward Enninful’s successor London Fashion Week: Jourdan Dunn walks in emotional Richard Quinn show
1970-01-01 08:00
UN Latest: Zelenskiy Meets Billionaires in Quest For Funds
UN Latest: Zelenskiy Meets Billionaires in Quest For Funds
Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskiy is meeting Wall Street billionaires including Citadel founder Ken Griffin and Pershing Square founder
1970-01-01 08:00
Finance titans meet with Ukraine's Zelenskiy in New York -sources
Finance titans meet with Ukraine's Zelenskiy in New York -sources
By Svea Herbst-Bayliss NEW YORK Investors Ken Griffin and Bill Ackman, who oversee billions of dollars in private
1970-01-01 08:00
Quavo heads to Washington, DC to bring awareness to gun violence prevention
Quavo heads to Washington, DC to bring awareness to gun violence prevention
Quavo, who lost his nephew and fellow Migos member Takeoff to gun violence last year, is turning his grief into action.
1970-01-01 08:00
Saudi crown prince says in rare interview 'every day we get closer' to normalization with Israel
Saudi crown prince says in rare interview 'every day we get closer' to normalization with Israel
Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman says in an interview with Fox News airing Wednesday that ongoing negotiations over Israel means the prospects of normalized relations between both countries “get closer” every day but that treatment of Palestinians is “very important.”
1970-01-01 08:00
Blinken highlights the human toll of Ukraine war as Biden admin seeks to maintain support for Kyiv in Washington
Blinken highlights the human toll of Ukraine war as Biden admin seeks to maintain support for Kyiv in Washington
US Secretary of State Antony Blinken opened his remarks at the United Nations Security Council on Wednesday recounting his recent trip to Yahidne -- a Ukrainian town roughly two hours north of Kyiv that had been occupied by Russian soldiers.
1970-01-01 08:00
Tenor Stephen Gould dies at age 61 after being diagnosed with bile duct cancer
Tenor Stephen Gould dies at age 61 after being diagnosed with bile duct cancer
Tenor Stephen Gould, who announced earlier this month that he had been diagnosed with incurable bile duct cancer, has died
1970-01-01 08:00
UN incapable of stopping aggressors like Putin invading other countries, says Zelensky
UN incapable of stopping aggressors like Putin invading other countries, says Zelensky
The UN is incapable of preventing aggressors like Vladimir Putin invading other countries, Ukraine’s Volodymyr Zelensky has claimed, as he made an impassioned call for reform of the General Assembly and Security Council to end Russia’s war on his country. The president came face-to-face with a Russian diplomat as he addressed the UN Security Council in New York for the first time since Moscow’s invasion of his country. Mr Zelensky urged reform of the world body, saying: “Humankind no longer pins its hopes on the UN when it comes to the defence of the sovereign border of nations.” He added: “We should not wait for the aggression to be over. We need to act now. Our aspiration for peace should drive the reform.” And accusing Moscow of “criminal and unprovoked aggression”, he called on the General Assembly to remove Russia’s veto power on the Security Council. The 15-member council has met dozens of times since Russia invaded Ukraine in February last year, but it has been unable to take any action because Moscow holds a veto. All eyes had been on a potential encounter between the Ukrainian president and the Russian foreign minister, but Mr Zelensky left the room before Sergei Lavrov spoke, avoiding any clash. Russian ambassador Vassily Nebenzia had objected to the Ukrainian leader’s addressing the gathering, but his protest was stifled by Albanian prime minister Edi Rama, president of the meeting. Mr Zelensky posted on social media afterwards: “574 days of pain, losses, and struggle have already passed since the start of the full-scale aggression launched by the state, which, for some reason, is still present here among the permanent UNSC members. In a long thread, he wrote: “All in the world see what makes the UN incapable. This seat in the Security Council, which Russia occupied illegally, through backstage manipulations following the collapse of the USSR, has been taken by liars whose job is to whitewash Russia’s ongoing aggression and genocide ... “Veto power in the hands of the aggressor is what has pushed the UN into a dead end… “It is impossible to stop the war because all efforts are vetoed by the aggressor.” His proposals include expanding membership of the security council to include Germany and the African Union, among others. He said the epicentre of efforts to protect territorial integrity and sovereignty and human rights, as well as preventing aggression and genocide should be with the UN’s General Assembly and Security Council. Ukrainian soldiers were doing what the UN should be: holding Russia back, he told the security council, he told members. “Ukraine exercises its right to self-defence,” Mr Zelensky said. “Helping Ukraine with weapons in this exercise, by imposing sanctions and exerting comprehensive pressure on the aggressor, as well as voting for relevant resolutions, would mean helping to defend the UN Charter.” The 193-member General Assembly has overwhelmingly voted several times to condemn the invasion and demand Moscow withdraw its troops. They say Russia has violated the 1945 UN Charter. Mr Lavrov accused Western states of using the charter on “a case-by-case basis exclusively based on their parochial geopolitical needs”, which had shaken global stability and fomented hotbeds of tension, he said. On Thursday, the Ukrainian leader is due in Washington to meet US president Joe Biden, members of Congress and military officials to urge continued support for its war effort. While a majority in Congress still support supplying military aid to Ukraine, sceptical voices among Republicans are growing louder as the war’s cost rises. Mr Biden plans to announce a new military aid package during Mr Zelensky’s visit. Read More Ukraine-Russia war – live: Zelensky accuses Putin of ‘criminal and unprovoked aggression’ violating UN charter Ukraine, Russia and the tense U.N. encounter that almost happened — but didn't Zelensky tells UN to not make deals with ‘evil’ Russia: ‘Ask Prigozhin whether Putin can be trusted’ Grain spat drags Ukraine's ties with ally Poland to lowest point since start of Russian invasion Ukraine rejects defective Leopard 1 tanks from Germany after finding ‘serious faults’ Ukraine's allies make legal arguments at top UN court in support of Kyiv's case against Russia
1970-01-01 08:00
Ukraine-Russia war – live: Zelensky says UN ‘incapable’ of stopping Putin’s ‘criminal aggression’
Ukraine-Russia war – live: Zelensky says UN ‘incapable’ of stopping Putin’s ‘criminal aggression’
Ukraine’s president Volodymyr Zelensky has accused the UN of being incapable of preventing aggressors invading other countries, as he accused Russia of committing “criminal and unprovoked aggression”. Coming face-to-face with Vladimir Putin’s ambassador to the UN for the first time since his country was invaded, Mr Zelensky told a special meeting of the UN’s security council that the aggression violated both the norms of war and the UN Charter itself. And he made an impassioned call for reform of the General Assembly and Security Council to end Russia’s war on his country. He urged reform of the world body, saying: “Humankind no longer pins its hopes on the UN when it comes to the defence of the sovereign border of nations.” The General Assembly should remove Russia’s veto power on the Security Council, he insisted, adding: “It is impossible to stop the war because all efforts are vetoed by the aggressor.” His proposals include expanding membership of the security council to include Germany and the African Union, among others. Read More Zelensky urges Trump to ‘not waste time’ and share proposal on ending Russian invasion of Ukraine Ukraine ‘has one month to hold knife to Crimea’s throat’ and force Putin into peace talks How Ukraine’s battle for the Black Sea is inflicting serious pain on Putin’s forces
1970-01-01 08:00
Bruins captaincy passes from soft-spoken Bergeron to in-your-face Marchand. He says he's ready
Bruins captaincy passes from soft-spoken Bergeron to in-your-face Marchand. He says he's ready
The Boston Bruins named Brad Marchand captain on Wednesday
1970-01-01 08:00
Internet reacts to Amber Heard's new thriller 'In the Fire' after she claimed her role was trimmed in 'Aquaman'
Internet reacts to Amber Heard's new thriller 'In the Fire' after she claimed her role was trimmed in 'Aquaman'
'We will be watching,' an enthusiastic fan wrote on Amber Heard's comeback movie
1970-01-01 08:00
Biden, Lula Launch Partnership to Improve Conditions for Workers
Biden, Lula Launch Partnership to Improve Conditions for Workers
President Joe Biden and his Brazilian counterpart, Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, launched an initiative to improve labor
1970-01-01 08:00
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