Popeyes widely mocked for attempt to join ‘girl dinner’ trend
The “girl dinner” trend is the newest viral sensation taking over TikTok. Now, Popeyes has unveiled its take on “girl dinner” by offering a variety of sides for a single meal. However, not everyone is on board with the new menu item. For those unaware, the “girl dinner” trend first popped up in May after TikTok user Olivia Maher described her ideal meal as nothing but bread and cheese. As Maher showed off her plate - which consisted of bread, cheese, wine, grapes, and pickles - she said: “This is my dinner, I call this ‘girl dinner.’” Since then, fellow TikTokers have used Maher’s sound to highlight their go-to “girl dinner” meals - green olives, salami slices, and pieces of cheese; guacamole and chips; or prosciutto and peach slices. Essentially, the “girl dinner” trend involves a smorgasbord of one’s favourite snacks or small plates, which is why it didn’t take long for Popeyes to unveil its own “girl dinner” menu. The American fast food chain, known for its iconic chicken sandwiches, is now selling a selection of six side dishes on its website under the new tab, “Girl Dinner”. The menu includes mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, Cajun fries, coleslaw, biscuits, and red beans with rice. Each dish has to be ordered separately, and the price varies depending on how many sides are ordered. In fact, the “Girl Dinner” tab is identical to Popeyes’ menu for side dishes, but just with a trendier name. That’s partly why Popeyes’ new “girl dinner” menu has sparked much conversation online: it’s all just sides. “Thought this was a joke but there is literally a ‘girl dinner’ section on the Popeyes website wtf is going on,” read one viral tweet. “Popeyes got a ‘girl dinner’ section on the app…but it’s just sides lol,” another said. “If anyone was wondering Popeyes has a ‘girl dinner’ segment of its menu and it’s just all their available sides,” a third user wrote. While some people believed the menu option was a “genius” marketing ploy, others pointed out its shortcomings – namely, that a restaurant known for its chicken wouldn’t offer chicken in its new menu. “To go to Popeyes and not get chicken is a literal crime give girl dinner some chicken plz,” said one user in response. Unlike a traditional combo meal, which combines a variety of offerings into one order, many people also noted that the “girl dinner” meal is exactly the same as Popeyes’ side dishes. “They didn’t actually do anything tho!!! It’s just sides, there isn’t a combo mix-n-match,” said one person on TikTok. “They duplicated the sides tab and renamed it ‘girl dinner.’” Much like the original “girl dinner” trend, which sparked some controversy for lacking sustenance, Popeyes fans believed that its new menu option was simply not enough food. “Popeyes is offering a ‘girl dinner’ menu that contains zero meals,” one person tweeted. “Just a quick reminder that it is girly and feminine as f*** to eat many big, nutritious meals a day.” In a statement to CNN, Popeyes said its “girl dinner” menu was designed to give its fans “options packed with robust Cajun flavours that are made with the same slow, time-honoured, homemade traditions of Southern cooking that the brand started in 1972”. Read More What is the ‘girl dinner’ trend and why is there controversy over it? What is an ‘ingredient household’? TikTok phrase for snackless homes goes viral ‘We call them Picky Bits’: Nigella Lawson responds to viral ‘Girl Dinner’ trend Schoolboy almost dies from swallowing magnets for TikTok challenge Woman shares honest review of New York City apartment TikTok mom slammed after making 5-year-old son run in 104 degree heat
1970-01-01 08:00
Hi Barbie! Nine cocktails inspired by the doll’s most iconic outfits
If you’re sick of all things Barbie, look away now. Greta Gerwig’s long-awaited movie hits British cinemas today, after a week of press screenings in which the vast majority of the audience was dressed head to toe in pink. If you are similarly inclined and planning a Barbie-themed celebration ahead of watching the film, we’ve crafted a delightful selection of cocktails inspired by her most iconic outfits. Don’t worry – there are other colours in there, too. From her original black and white ensemble to her bright birthday get-up, there’s something for every style. And for those off the booze, we’ve got you covered with some equally enchating mocktails. Pink and Fabulous Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Step back into the ’80s when Barbie dazzled the world with her Pink and Fabulous outfit. This cocktail is an ode to that era, combining fruity flavours and a burst of pink goodness. Ingredients: 2 oz raspberry vodka 1 oz peach schnapps 2 oz cranberry juice 1 oz lime juice 1 oz simple syrup Pink cotton candy (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add raspberry vodka, peach schnapps, cranberry juice, lime juice, and simple syrup. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled martini glass. 5. Garnish with a tuft of pink cotton candy for a touch of whimsy. 6. Serve and enjoy the fabulousness! Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz pink lemonade 2 oz cranberry juice 1 oz lime juice 1 oz simple syrup Pink cotton candy (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add pink lemonade, cranberry juice, lime juice, and simple syrup. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled mocktail glass. 5. Garnish with a tuft of pink cotton candy. 6. Sip and indulge in the pink fantasy! Note: Pink cotton candy can be found at specialty stores or online. Original Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Pay homage to the timeless beauty and elegance of the Original Barbie with this classic cocktail. Embrace simplicity and sophistication just like Barbie did when she first graced the world. Ingredients: 1.5 oz gin 0.5 oz elderflower liqueur 0.5 oz fresh lemon juice 0.5 oz simple syrup Club soda Lemon twist (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add gin, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice, and simple syrup. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a highball glass filled with ice. 5. Top up with club soda. 6. Garnish with a lemon twist for a touch of elegance. Non-alcoholic option: Ingredients: 2 oz elderflower soda 1 oz fresh lemon juice 0.5 oz simple syrup Club soda Lemon twist (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add elderflower soda, lemon juice, and simple syrup. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a highball glass filled with ice. 5. Top up with club soda. 6. Garnish with a lemon twist. Happy Birthday Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Let’s raise our glasses to Barbie’s special day with a celebratory cocktail. Inspired by her birthday outfit, this colourful and sweet drink will add a burst of joy to your Barbie movie premiere celebration. Ingredients: 1.5 oz coconut rum 1 oz blue curaçao liqueur 2 oz pineapple juice 1 oz cream of coconut Edible glitter or sprinkles (for rim) Colorful paper straw (for garnish) Method: 1. Rim a chilled cocktail glass with edible glitter or sprinkles for a festive touch. 2. Fill a shaker with ice cubes. 3. Add coconut rum, blue curaçao liqueur, pineapple juice, and cream of coconut. 4. Shake well until chilled and frothy. 5. Strain into the prepared cocktail glass filled with ice. 6. Garnish with a colorful paper straw for a playful vibe. Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz blue raspberry lemonade 2 oz pineapple juice 1 oz cream of coconut Edible glitter or sprinkles (for rim) Colorful paper straw (for garnish) Method: 1. Rim a chilled mocktail glass with edible glitter or sprinkles. 2. Fill a shaker with ice cubes. 3. Add blue raspberry lemonade, pineapple juice, and cream of coconut. 4. Shake well until chilled and frothy. 5. Strain into the prepared mocktail glass filled with ice. 6. Garnish with a colorful paper straw. Day to Night Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Channel the versatility and glamor of Day to Night Barbie with this sophisticated cocktail. Just like Barbie transitions from daytime elegance to nighttime allure, this drink evolves with a mesmerising colour change. Ingredients: 2 oz vodka 1 oz butterfly pea flower tea (steeped and cooled) 0.5 oz lavender syrup 0.5 oz fresh lemon juice Lemon twist or edible flower (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add vodka, butterfly pea flower tea, lavender syrup, and fresh lemon juice. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled coupe or martini glass. 5. Garnish with a lemon twist or edible flower for an extra touch of elegance. 6. Watch the mesmerizing color change as you enjoy your drink. Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz butterfly pea flower tea (steeped and cooled) 0.5 oz lavender syrup 0.5 oz fresh lemon juice Lemon twist or edible flower (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add butterfly pea flower tea, lavender syrup, and fresh lemon juice. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled coupe or martini glass. 5. Garnish with a lemon twist or edible flower. Sparkling Pink Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Raise the glam quotient with this effervescent and shimmering cocktail inspired by Sparkling Pink Barbie. Embrace the sparkle and sophistication of Barbie’s dazzling personality as you sip on this delightful drink. Ingredients: 2 oz pink gin 1 oz elderflower liqueur 0.5 oz fresh lime juice 2-3 dashes of edible pink glitter or shimmer dust Sparkling rosé wine Edible flower or fresh raspberry (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add pink gin, elderflower liqueur, and fresh lime juice. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled champagne flute. 5. Add 2-3 dashes of edible pink glitter or shimmer dust to create a sparkling effect. 6. Top up with sparkling rosé wine. 7. Garnish with an edible flower or fresh raspberry for a touch of elegance. Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz pink lemonade 1 oz elderflower soda 0.5 oz fresh lime juice 2-3 dashes of edible pink glitter or shimmer dust Sparkling water or club soda Edible flower or fresh raspberry (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add pink lemonade, elderflower soda, and fresh lime juice. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled champagne flute. 5. Add 2-3 dashes of edible pink glitter or shimmer dust. 6. Top up with sparkling water or club soda. 7. Garnish with an edible flower or fresh raspberry. Earring Magic Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Indulge in the enchanting allure of Earring Magic Barbie with this mysterious and delightful cocktail. Let the magical combination of flavours transport you to a realm of wonder and elegance. Ingredients: 1.5 oz black vodka 0.5 oz blue curaçao liqueur 1 oz blackberry liqueur 1 oz fresh lemon juice Blackberries or edible flowers (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add black vodka, blue curaçao liqueur, blackberry liqueur, and fresh lemon juice. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled rocks glass filled with ice. 5. Garnish with blackberries or edible flowers for an elegant touch. Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz blackberry lemonade 1 oz blueberry syrup 1 oz fresh lemon juice Blackberries or edible flowers (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add blackberry lemonade, blueberry syrup, and fresh lemon juice. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled rocks glass filled with ice. 5. Garnish with blackberries or edible flowers. Totally Hair Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Get ready to shake and stir with the vibrant and colourful Totally Hair Barbie cocktail. Inspired by Barbie’s bold and exuberant fashion, this drink is a burst of tropical flavors that will transport you to a sun-soaked paradise. Ingredients: 1.5 oz white rum 1 oz coconut rum 1 oz mango juice 1 oz orange juice 0.5 oz fresh lime juice 0.5 oz grenadine syrup Pineapple slice or cherry (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add white rum, coconut rum, mango juice, orange juice, fresh lime juice, and grenadine syrup. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled hurricane glass filled with ice. 5. Garnish with a pineapple slice or cherry for a tropical touch. Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz mango juice 2 oz orange juice 0.5 oz fresh lime juice 0.5 oz grenadine syrup Pineapple slice or cherry (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. 2. Add mango juice, orange juice, fresh lime juice, and grenadine syrup. 3. Shake well until chilled. 4. Strain into a chilled hurricane glass filled with ice. 5. Garnish with a pineapple slice or cherry. Solo in the Spotlight Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Raise a toast to Solo in the Spotlight Barbie with this show-stopping cocktail. Just like Barbie’s unforgettable performance, this drink is bold, dynamic, and sure to steal the spotlight at your Barbie movie premiere celebration. Ingredients: 1.5 oz bourbon 0.5 oz amaretto liqueur 0.5 oz simple syrup 2-3 dashes of aromatic bitters Lemon twist (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a mixing glass with ice cubes. 2. Add bourbon, amaretto liqueur, simple syrup, and aromatic bitters. 3. Stir well until chilled and properly mixed. 4. Strain into a chilled Old Fashioned glass filled with ice. 5. Garnish with a lemon twist for a touch of sophistication. Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz black tea (chilled) 1 oz almond milk 0.5 oz simple syrup 2-3 dashes of aromatic bitters Lemon twist (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a mixing glass with ice cubes. 2. Add black tea, almond milk, simple syrup, and aromatic bitters. 3. Stir well until properly mixed. 4. Strain into a chilled Old Fashioned glass filled with ice. 5. Garnish with a lemon twist. Enchanted Evening Barbie Makes: 1 cocktail Embark on a romantic and enchanting journey with this sophisticated cocktail inspired by Enchanted Evening Barbie. This drink is the epitome of elegance, making it the perfect choice to celebrate the premiere of Barbie’s movie in the UK. Ingredients: 2 oz gin 1 oz violet liqueur 0.5 oz dry vermouth Edible flower or violet petal (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a mixing glass with ice cubes. 2. Add gin, violet liqueur, and dry vermouth. 3. Stir well until properly chilled and mixed. 4. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. 5. Garnish with an edible flower or violet petal for a touch of romance. Non-alcoholic option: Makes: 1 mocktail Ingredients: 2 oz grape juice 1 oz violet syrup or lavender syrup 0.5 oz lemon juice Edible flower or violet petal (for garnish) Method: 1. Fill a mixing glass with ice cubes. 2. Add grape juice, violet syrup or lavender syrup, and lemon juice. 3. Stir well until properly mixed. 4. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. 5. Garnish with an edible flower or violet petal. Read More The National Portrait Gallery’s new restaurant is fabulous upgrade The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha 3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season Imad Alarnab: In Calais’ Jungle refugee camp, food restored our faith It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think Make this Middle Eastern lamb shoulder for your next Sunday roast
1970-01-01 08:00
Real Madrid unveil new away kit for 2023/24 season
Real Madrid have unveiled their new away kit for the 2023/24 campaign.
1970-01-01 08:00
US proposes steep hike in bonding rates for oil, gas wells
By Nichola Groom (Reuters) -The Biden administration on Thursday proposed a sharp increase in bonding rates to cover the cost
1970-01-01 08:00
Rodrygo discusses Real Madrid's interest in Kylian Mbappe & Harry Kane
Real Madrid winger Rodrygo has talked about the club's pursuits of PSG forward Kylian Mbappe and Tottenham striker Harry Kane.
1970-01-01 08:00
Michelin star chef Marcus Wareing gives controversial answer to the best pizza in London
Marcus Wareing has claimed that the best pizza he has tried in London is Pizza Express, where he has dined for 20 years. Speaking to content creator Jesse Burgess in a video on Topjaw’s TikTok, the two Michelin-starred chef, who is best known for being a judge on MasterChef: The Professionals said that the classic American Hot pizza, which the restaurant chain has served since the Sixties, is his dish of choice. Asked by Burgess: “What is the best pizza?” Marcus replied: “This one is easy, but you’re not going to like the answer. Pizza Express, I know, I know.” “I still eat the same pizza I was eating for the past 20 years, American Hot, I love it, Romana, a little bit of extra chilli, I love it, it’s got to be a Romana base.” An American Hot is a classic pepperoni pizza with chilli peppers, while a Romana base uses Pizza Express’s famous dough but stretched out to be even bigger, creating a thin, crispy 14-inch base, giving room for extra toppings. “And do you know what every time I go it’s cooked exactly the same,” he added. Content creator Burgess explained that his favourite from the restaurant chain was a Sloppy Guiseppe pizza, a recipe that uses spicy ground beef, green pepper, red onion, tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. Pizza fanatics have been debating Wareing’s choice, given that London is flooded with pizza chains that serve up trendier offerings, like Pizza Pilgrims, Homeslice, Yard Sale Pizza or Franca Manca. @topjaw Didn’t expect that! More Marcus Wareing tomorrow… ♬ original sound - TOPJAW “He should hand back his stars!” commented one person who seemed to disapprove of Wareing’s preference. “Always consistent I have to say,” wrote one person in agreement with the chef. “I always go for the Giuseppe as well.” “Agreed, nothing better!” added one Pizza Express fan. Meanwhile, one commenter disagreed with the choice of chain restaurant, writing: “Pizza Pilgrims is elite.” In a previous interview with the Guardian, Wareing said that Pizza Express was his favourite chain to take his children to. “They love Pizza Express, which I think is consistently good,” said the chef. “And The Butcher and Grill in Battersea. They get a proper meal and colouring books.” Pizza Express was founded in 1965 by restauranter Peter Boizot, who brought a pizza oven back to London from a trip to Italy. Opening its first restaurant on Wardour Street in Soho, the chain now has 370 sites in the UK and Ireland and 80 sites across Europe, Asia and the Middle East. During the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020, the restaurant announced it was closing 73 of its UK branches. In 2021, it announced it was closing another 23 restaurants. Read More ‘Just awful’: Man accused of ‘selfish’ behaviour after proposing to girlfriend at their graduation Prince Harry and Meghan weren’t allowed to fly Air Force One with Biden after Queen’s funeral, report says Cruise line apologises after passengers witness dozens of pilot whales being slaughtered Chef sparks debate about seasoning chicken with just salt in viral recipe Splash out for this heritage tomato, fennel and dukkah salad Make this Middle Eastern lamb shoulder for your next Sunday roast
1970-01-01 08:00
Crystal Palace set Cheick Doucoure asking price amid Liverpool, PSG & Atletico Madrid interest
Crystal Palace midfielder Cheick Doucoure is the subject of interest from top clubs around Europe, including Liverpool, Paris Saint-Germain and Atletico Madrid. The Eagles will demand at least £65m for the Mali international.
1970-01-01 08:00
US House panel looks to revive stalled self-driving legislation -sources
By David Shepardson WASHINGTON (Reuters) -A U.S. House of Representatives panel will hold a July 26 hearing as lawmakers look
1970-01-01 08:00
Splash out for this heritage tomato, fennel and dukkah salad
Make this in summer when the tomatoes are at their best,” suggests Imad Alarnab. “The better the tomato, the better this will taste, so splash out and get the good ones.” Heritage tomato, fennel and dukkah salad Serves: 2 as a main or 4 as a side Ingredients: 1 fennel bulb 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp za’atar 300g assorted heritage tomatoes, cut into chunks 2 tbsp good-quality extra virgin olive oil Grated zest and juice of ½ lemon 2 tbsp dukkah 150g soft goat’s cheese Small handful of fresh tarragon leaves Salt Method: 1. Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. 2. Cut the fennel bulb into 6-8 wedges, depending on how large your fennel is. Toss in the olive oil, za’atar and salt to taste, place on an oven tray and roast for 25-30 minutes until soft, slightly crisp and golden. Set aside to cool slightly. 3. Toss the tomatoes in a little salt and the extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest and juice, and dukkah. Roughly crumble the cheese and place on a large serving plate, followed by the roasted fennel and then the tomatoes. Finish with the tarragon leaves. Imad’s Syrian Kitchen by Imad Alarnab (HQ, £26). Read More The National Portrait Gallery’s new restaurant is fabulous upgrade The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha 3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season Imad Alarnab: In Calais’ Jungle refugee camp, food restored our faith It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think Make this Middle Eastern lamb shoulder for your next Sunday roast
1970-01-01 08:00
Isco reveals receiving Barcelona offer while at Real Madrid
Former Real Madrid star Isco has admitted that he turned down the chance to join Barcelona back in 2018.
1970-01-01 08:00
Make this Middle Eastern lamb shoulder for your next Sunday roast
A crowd-pleasing dish to serve up for a family meal or dinner party, Imad Alarnab’s Kataf Ghanam recipe hails from Syria. Kataf Ghanam (lamb shoulder) Serves: 4-6 Ingredients: For the marinade: 5 garlic cloves, grated 2 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp mild Madras curry powder ½ tbsp ground black pepper 3cm piece of fresh ginger, grated 1 tbsp baharat (a spice mix blend) Juice of 1 lemon 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 tbsp red pepper paste Good pinch of salt 150ml olive oil For the lamb: 1.5-2kg lamb shoulder, bone in 10 garlic cloves, peeled 4 sprigs of thyme 4 sprigs of rosemary Method: 1. Mix together all the marinade ingredients in a large container. Rub the marinade all over the lamb so it’s completely covered. Cover and marinate in the fridge for a minimum of 4 hours, ideally overnight. 2. When you’re ready to cook, preheat the oven to 160C/fan 140C/ gas 3. 3. Take the lamb from the fridge, then get a high-sided oven tray and line with a layer of foil and a layer of baking paper, large enough to cover the lamb. Add the garlic and herb sprigs to the middle, followed by the lamb and all the marinade (you can also add onions, carrots or potatoes at this stage, if you like). Fold the foil and baking paper over the lamb like a parcel, then flip it over and wrap it again in another layer of foil so the lamb is tightly wrapped and there are no gaps. We want to cook the lamb in its own juices, so it’s really important that it’s completely covered at this stage. 4. Place in the oven and cook for 4 hours or until the meat is falling off the bone. Remove from the oven, unwrap, increase the temperature to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 and roast until browned on top. Serve with kabsa rice or plain bulgur. ‘Imad’s Syrian Kitchen’ by Imad Alarnab (HQ, £26) Read More The National Portrait Gallery’s new restaurant is fabulous upgrade The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha 3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season Imad Alarnab: In Calais’ Jungle refugee camp, food restored our faith It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think Get set for Wimbledon with top pastry chef’s strawberry recipes
1970-01-01 08:00
Between Brexit and Covid, London’s food scene has become a dog’s dinner – can it be saved?
London holds a special place in the hearts of food enthusiasts. In the halcyon days of the UK’s place in the European Union, it could even be said that the capital was one of the best cities in Europe – if not the best – for food. Despite it being beaten out by Paris in the Michelin guide (the French capital boasts 119 Michelin stars compared to London’s 74), the city’s sheer diversity made it stand out, with nearly every cuisine under the sun available somewhere in its streets. But recently it hasn’t really felt this way, and the people have noticed. Last week, Lily Allen tweeted: “Having been in New York for most of the time since Covid, I’ve spent long enough away to notice how far the standards have slipped in London’s restaurant scene… Delivery food and takeaways are even worse. Dunno if it’s Brexit or ghost kitchens or inflation or whatever, but it’s a terrible shame.” It’s evident from social media posts and online reviews that a lot of patrons feel the same. The restaurant industry has taken blow after blow in recent years, beginning with the UK’s messy divorce from the EU in 2016. And as it was trying to recover from Brexit, which resulted in increased costs, new bureaucracy and staff shortages, Covid hit. Restaurants were forced to shutter their doors for unknown periods of time, deal with confusing new rules, and magic whole new delivery systems out of thin air. Now, the industry is having to weather the cost of living crisis. In the face of all this, it might be a little cruel to denounce London’s usually thriving food landscape as “mediocre”. But, as painful as it might be, there is some truth to it. Ben Orpwood, a former contestant on the BBC reality series The Great British Menu, tells me that Allen’s observation, while perhaps a bit strongly worded, wasn’t completely wrong about the state of the industry. Orpwood, who was previously the executive chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat, has been cooking in some of the world’s finest kitchens for nearly two decades. But he says he’s never seen anything like the state of affairs at his latest opening, 20 Berkeley in Mayfair. “Normally when you first open a restaurant, the drop-off from the opening team [staff] is something like 20 per cent,” he explains. “You lose people who applied for something they’re not really ready for and opening week is very intense – so they go. But after we opened 20 Berkeley in June, apart from my core team, we had 100 per cent turnover. I’ve never seen anything like it.” He says that staff are leaving even with benefits like getting two meals a day, days and nights off, at least £13.50 an hour for employees with no prior experience, and a nice, conducive kitchen environment to work in – a far cry from the shouting and screaming he endured earlier in his career. “I had a pastry chef that left last week who worked 3pm-11pm, five days a week, no double shifts – he didn’t like how much work there was,” Orpwood marvels. “I can’t get my head around that mentality. The talent and the drive is just not there anymore, there are very few talented young chefs around and all the good restaurants are scrapping over them. When you’re going through that as a new restaurant, it makes it so much harder.” The chef, who has more than two decades of experience under his belt, explains that the aftermath of Brexit and Covid are primarily to blame. Brexit caused an exodus of EU citizens, many of whom questioned whether or not they were welcome in the UK. When Covid hit, more people returned to their home countries and discovered new work opportunities there, opting not to come back to British shores. “Then the government goes, ‘We’ll plug the shortage with young British workers’, except that they introduced needless academic requirements to apprenticeships with a minimum wage that people can’t pay their rent on,” Orpwood adds. The national minimum wage for apprentices aged 21 in their first year is £5.28 an hour, while the average rent for a room in London has rocketed to almost £1k a month. To say that we’re mediocre, I don’t really think it’s a fair reflection Ben Mulock Of course, some industry folk are more optimistic. Ben Mulock, executive chef of Balans, says: “The London food scene for me is still vibrant, it’s still innovative. We still have some great authenticity to it.” However, even the most positive outlook can’t ignore the biggest, most glaring problem restaurants currently face: the skills shortage. “I’ve been cooking since I was 14, and it’s never been like this throughout my entire career,” Mulock laments. “But we are striving and pushing our standards higher to try and give people the experience of years gone by with this new workforce. So, to say that we’re mediocre, I don’t really think it’s a fair reflection.” He adds that people who live in the capital have “some of the most discerning palates globally” and that feeding a London crowd “isn’t an easy thing to please”. “But when you get it right, it’s a wonderful, wonderful feeling,” he says. Perhaps, for anyone who lives outside of London, the bar has been set at an artificial high. Influencers invited to restaurants that have a marketing budget are more likely to post gushing reviews, complete with mouthwatering visuals as they stuff their gobs. Meanwhile, restaurant critics for broadsheets have been recently criticised for platforming establishments in more affluent areas, or only if they’ve been invited. Given some publications don’t pay for reviewers’ meals, this is unavoidable – but it generates a false economy in which readers believe those are the best places to eat. In his essay “London Finds Itself”, Vittles editor Jonathan Nunn wrote about the decline of reviews and the rise of simplified maps that pinpoint places to eat, which also manifests itself in lists. It’s why the algorithm adores those “10 stunning places to eat in London” videos, and why publications are desperate to churn out recommendation lists. He wrote: “The review is too discursive, too expensive to produce, written by people who demand to be paid properly. Far better to shop it all out to a freelancer who can google a bunch of stuff and stitch it together without context.” One has to wonder if this, too, has contributed to restaurants falling short of expectations – perhaps no one is looking closely enough. But Hugh Smithson-Wright, a communications specialist for restaurants, says that the food scene is no more mediocre than it’s ever been; in fact, there have always been plenty of middling eateries around. “Not everyone can be so great,” he says. “Some of my favourite restaurants have been places where food is absolutely fine.” But there’s a distinction to be made here. “Fine is OK if it’s not costing you a lot of money. Expensive is fine if the food is incredible. But now, with everything being so much more expensive for everyone on every income level, the places that are fine are getting more expensive, with smaller portions and cheaper produce, and that’s what we’re not tolerating.” Smithson-Wright points to the fate of Prezzo as a perfect example of this reduced level of tolerance. In April, the Italian restaurant chain closed 46 of its 143 branches and said it was due to soaring energy and food costs – but Smithson-Wright adds that its uninspired food was also a factor. “Prezzo was only fine – it wasn’t great or innovative, but as those prices go up, OK is not good enough. It’s these types of mid-range restaurants, whether chains or independent, that will find they have nowhere to go. They can’t suddenly make their food luxurious, and equally, they can’t suddenly charge the prices they perhaps need to be charging to keep the lights on.” Price is a painful topic right now, resulting in a bitter stand-off between some patrons and restaurateurs. But Britons have historically been averse to paying more for their food, lulled into a false sense of security by the cut-throat price war between supermarkets. Or a sense of: if I can spend less than £5 on a Sainsbury’s ready meal, why are restaurants charging three, four, or five times that for a main course? But, as Smithson-Wright points out, the “bravest thing a restaurant can do is charge what they need to” without fear of empty seats. “In some ways, restaurants punish themselves by not charging what they should and now they’re stuck in a mediocrity trap,” he says. “And they’re not helped by the psychological barrier people have over what they will pay for things.” So what does this mean for the future of food in London? The restaurant industry, as a whole, isn’t about to die any time soon. As Orpwood says, this is a resilient industry and will “just get on with it” until it comes out the other side with hopefully greener grass. Smithson-Wright adds that the current situation sounds a death knell for mid-level restaurants, many of which will not survive this period. But Mullock tries to offer a sunnier disposition. “The London food scene is alive and it’s doing some really good things. Everyone’s just pursuing deliciousness.” Read More Sorry lads, we just can’t afford any more reckless, middle-aged adventurers The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha Nappy changes and tantrums over Michael Gove: I took my one-year-old to a music festival Sunak rules out any new EU trade deal that undermines Brexit freedoms Tory MP broke rules over £150,000 loan from Russian businessman What is the future of the Conservative Party?
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